Complete list of technics of bouldering
Bouldering and climbing techniques are essential for effective movement on the wall, whether you’re navigating challenging boulder problems or extended climbing routes. This list of all bouldering techniques cover foot placements, hand grips, body positions, and movement strategies.
Foot Techniques
- Bat Hanging
Hooking both feet on a hold and hanging upside down, often used on steep or horizontal sections to free up the hands. - Bicycle
Placing one foot against a hold and using the other foot to pinch or oppose it, creating stability on overhanging routes. - Edging
Using the edge of the shoe to hold onto small footholds, allowing for precision and balance. - Flagging
Extending a leg to balance without placing it on a foothold, helping with overhangs or traverses. - Foot Swap
Quickly switching feet on a foothold without losing balance or control, often required in tight sequences. - Front Pointing
Using the very tip of the shoe on small footholds, commonly applied on steep or overhanging sections. - Heel Hooking
Using your heel on a hold for stability or to pull your body closer to the wall. Sometimes its used to pull yourself over the heel. - Smearing
Pressing the sole of the shoe against a blank surface for friction when there are no footholds. - Toe Hooking
Using the top of your shoe to latch onto holds, typically for stability or to reach in the opposite side.
Hand Techniques
- Bump
Moving one hand up the same hold or sequence of holds, often used to improve body positioning. - Crimping
Using the fingertips to grip small edges; involves significant finger strength. Variants include:- Full Crimp: Thumb over index finger for added strength.
- Half Crimp: Fingers bent without the thumb, for a safer grip.
- Open Hand Grip Open hand holding holds, safest for tendons.
- Hand / finger Jams
Wedging the hand or fingers into a crack. - Matching and Piano matching
Placing both hands or fingers of both hands on the same hold, used in cramped spaces or to prepare for a hand switch. - Meat hook
A typical way to grab a big hold where the hand drapes over the hold. Palm and hand are fully in contact with the hold. - Mono Pockets / Pockets
Using one or more fingers to grip inside small holes or pockets. - Palming
Pushing against the rock with an open palm for balance or positioning, often useful on slabs or mantles. - Pinching
Gripping a hold with the thumb and fingers on opposite sides, useful on volumes or wide features. - Underclinging
Gripping a hold from underneath, often pulling up and requiring core engagement.
Body Techniques
- Back-Stepping
Positioning a foot behind the other to keep hips close to the wall, helping with balance and stability. - Compression / Opposition
Pressing outward on two opposing holds, often used to squeeze or balance between volumes. - Cross-Through and rose move
Crossing one arm or leg over the other to reach holds, helpful in cramped areas or traverses. Rose move involves a drop knee to facilitate a further reach. - Drop-Knee
Twisting the hips and dropping one knee down to lower the center of gravity, similar to back-stepping but often with more body twist. - Figure Four
Hooking one leg over the opposite arm to extend reach on steep overhangs, typically seen in ice climbing but sometimes used in bouldering. - Frogging
Placing feet wide with knees out, often used on slabs or stemming sections to maximize reach and stability. - Gaston
Pushing outwards with a hand on a side-pull hold, requiring shoulder strength to maintain control. - Kneebar
Wedging the knee into a crack or between holds for stability or to rest hands-free. - Knee scum
Technique where the climber presses the inside of their knee against a hold or rock for added stability. It helps maintain balance and friction, especially on overhangs or sparse holds. - Laybacking or Liebacking
Treat an arete or the crack as one long sidepull and lean from it while opposing the pressure with your feet. - Lock Off
Holding a bent-arm position with one hand while reaching with the other, requires arm strength. - Mantling
Using your arms and legs to press up onto a ledge or over a lip, like getting out of a pool. - Pogo / moon kick / Kipping
Swinging or kicking the legs to generate momentum, useful on steep routes or when hanging. - Rockover
Shifting weight onto one foot on a higher hold. - Stemming
Placing hands and feet on opposing surfaces to create stability, often used in corners or chimneys. - Stepping Through
Moving one foot past the other in a single, flowing motion, useful in traverses and for efficiency. - Twist-Locking
Twisting the torso perpendicular to the wall to reach further while conserving energy.
Movement strategies for bouldering and climbing
- Dynamic Movement or Dyno
Using momentum to reach a hold, often seen on overhanging routes. Variants include:- Double Dyno: Jumping with both hands to catch a hold.
- Flow State Climbing
A mindful state where movement, rhythm, efficient and smooth climbs comes together. - Rest Positions
Finding body positions that allow muscles to recover, important for longer climbs. - Static Movement
Slow, controlled moves that require precise balance and muscle engagement.
Each bouldering and climbing techniques listed here has specific applications depending on the climbing scenario and is often combined with others for effective problem-solving on the wall.
Sources:
https://threerockbooks.com/bouldering-terms/
Cathalist climbing 1 and 2
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/climbing-techniques.html
https://www.psychi.co.uk/blogs/climbing/7-bouldering-climbing-moves-for-beginners