Underclinging is one of those bouldering technique that feels strange the first time you try it but becomes incredibly powerful once you understand how it works. An undercling is a hold that you grip from underneath, pulling upward rather than down. Your fingers curl upward beneath the feature while your palm faces up, making the hold function very differently from a standard edge or jug. Although the hold itself may feel insecure at first glance, the strength of the undercling comes from how effectively it lets you create tension through your entire body.
Opposition to hold an undercling
The core principle behind underclinging is opposition. When you pull on an undercling, your body naturally wants to drift away from the wall. To counteract that, your feet must press firmly against footholds to balance the upward pull of your arms. This combination of pulling up and pushing down creates stability and allows you to lift your body smoothly. Depending on the problem, you may use smears, high steps, or even heel- or toe-hooks to generate the necessary counterforce.
Body position is essential to hold the undercling
Body positioning plays a major role in making underclings efficient rather than exhausting. Rotating your hips, engaging your core, and keeping your center of gravity close to the wall reduces strain on your arms. Because an undercling often serves as a transitional hold, precise and deliberate footwork becomes essential in moving from one position to the next.
Underclinging challenges you to use tension, body awareness, and coordination all at once. It turns holds that look unusable into valuable tools for upward progress and is a favorite technique among modern indoor routesetters. By developing confidence with underclings, you’ll expand your skillset, climb more efficiently, and open the door to a wider range of creative movement on the wall.
See following video illustration of a minute.
Key Aspects of Underclinging:
- Hand Position: Grip the hold from beneath with your palm facing up and thumb pointing away from your body’s centerline.
- Body Position: Maintain the hold near your midsection to optimize leverage while underclinging. As you ascend, adjust your body to keep the hold at waist level, ensuring balance and reducing strain.
- Footwork: Utilize high footholds to maintain body tension and support the upward pull. Effective foot placement is crucial for stability during undercling moves.