Maybe John Sherman is illustrative for the bouldering community, crazy and stubborn. Just going its own way. If you don’t agree that is ok, but if you are looking for him you know where to find him: climbing some rock for no reason.
Table of contents
John Sherman: Facts & Figures
- Born: 1959, United States.
- Nickname: “Verm”, short for “Vermin”.
- Education: Geologist degree from University of Colorado
- Known for: Developing Hueco Tanks, popularising bouldering and establishing the V-scale.
- Key year: 1991, when his Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide introduced the V-scale to a wider audience.
- First ascents: More than 400 problems at Hueco Tanks during the 1980s and early 1990s, according to his biographical record.
- Other contribution: In 1992, Sherman and Bruce Pottenger designed the Kinnaloa Sketchpad, an early commercially available bouldering crash pad.
- Notable books: Stone Crusade, Sherman Exposed and Better Bouldering.
V-scale & Hueco
If you ever wonder where it comes from: Verm or Vermin was a nickname for John Sherman. Probably because he just did his own thing, and because he was telling his stories in his own way. His way was combining the jokes and serious talks. Many did not understand his jokes, taking them as serious observations. Yet he introduced in 1991 the V-scale. Maybe this was one of his best jokes? But it was taken seriously by the world. So serious it is one out of two scales used most world wide.
John climbed mostly in Hueco, where he developed over 400 boulder problems. He documented many of these in his book: Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide. In this publication he not only provided the references to these climbs he also introduced the V-scale. Giving boulderers the possibility to compare boulders and find climbs suited to your own level.
John Gill B and E-scales
The gymnast who helped develop bouldering as its own sport introduced the B and E-scales. Both based on how often it was repeated. So if a problem was sent by someone it would first get a grade of B1, when the next day somebody else would send it it would get B2. Yet this did not represent the difficulty. This made it difficult to estimate how hard a problem was, let alone document this in guides. So I can imagine John Sherman proposing something more reliable.
John Sherman and Hueco Tanks
Northeast of El Paso, Texas, unusual rock formations gave the perfect opportunity to play this game of bouldering. Pockets, strange features made it the perfect playground for adults.
People have been attracted to these rocks for over 20000 years. Having documented foot prints dating 21 to 23000 years old.
In the 70 and 90s many climbers among them Bob Murray and Mike Head developed this new area. These new routes and bouldering problems started gaining attention from the climbing community in the 80 and 90s.
Most climbs in these areas would be in the style of that era: overhanging and demanding on finger strength. The John Gill gymnastic style.
Due to the popularity of these boulders the local authority had to introduce restrictions to all the visitors As of 1998 the area is restricted to visitors discovering the area on their own. As of 2000 visits can only be done under guided supervision.
According to local authorities this is the only way to savegard local history and nature for future generations.
Guide book
John who published his guide book introducing the V-scale in 1991 was an accelerator for the popularity of this region. Later in 1996 he published his second version extending the documentation of this region.
V9
Was the highest grade first proposed in John Sherman’s book. Yet bouldering was not finished challenging the human possibilities. And this scale had yet to be measured to boulders outside of Hueco. Among others boulders like C’etait demain in Fontainebleau by Jacky Godoffe V11 ascended in 1984 and The Groove in Pueblo Colorado V10 first ascended in 1978 by John Gill surpassed the V9 scale.
John Sherman invented the Crash-Pad
Another development Vermin had a hand in was the development of the safety gear Crashpad. In that time these were also called bouldering mats. First sold under the name “Kinnaloa Sketchpad“. Protecting boulderers when falling from steep climbs. As these kinds of climbs were typical for Hueco it is not surprising these were developed here.
Legacy
Only a few other boulderers can say they had as much influence on the bouldering community as John Sherman. I can only name Pierre Allain and John Gill who helped this sport climb to newer higher heights. Thank you John for your contribution.
Sources
- American Alpine Journal — Hueco Tanks: Climbing and Bouldering Guide, Second Edition (1996). A contemporary review of John Sherman’s guidebook, providing context on its coverage of Hueco Tanks and its role in documenting the area’s bouldering.
- Hueco Climbers Alliance — History. A specialist account of Hueco’s climbing development, notable problems and climbers, and the evolution of access restrictions.
- Texas Parks and Wildlife Department — Hueco Tanks History. Official background on the site’s Indigenous history, archaeological remains, rock art and cultural significance.
- Texas Parks and Wildlife Department — Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site. The official source for park information, visitor restrictions, reservations and access arrangements.
- The Nugget Climbing Podcast — John Sherman. An interview with John Sherman featuring first-hand recollections of early Hueco bouldering, highballs and climbing before modern crash pads became widespread.
- Climbing History — John Sherman. A historical profile of Sherman, useful for cross-checking his climbing career, notable ascents and contribution to bouldering.
- Wikipedia — John Sherman (climber). An overview of Sherman’s career, his contribution to bouldering and his association with the V-scale. Useful as a starting point for further research; important historical claims should be checked against primary or specialist sources.
- Wikipedia — Bouldering mat. Background on the development and purpose of crash pads, providing context for changes in outdoor bouldering safety and the early highball era.
- American Alpine Journal — Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories (2000). A contemporary review of Sherman’s climbing memoir, offering additional context on his experiences and the culture of bouldering during his career.