2016 – Lappnor Finland – by Nalle Hukkataival – 9a/V17
Burden of Dreams is a four-meter boulder problem located in Lappnor, Finland. It consists of a red granite face overhanging at a 45-degree angle with five primary holds. It is established as the world’s first consensus 9A (V17) boulder problem.
First Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival (2016)
Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival completed the first ascent of the boulder problem on October 23, 2016. The project required approximately four years of effort and an estimated 4,000 attempts. Prior to this ascent, the maximum confirmed grade in bouldering was 8C+ (V16). The physical constraints of the holds and skin wear limited Hukkataival to a low number of attempts per session. He proposed the 9A grade upon completion.
Second Ascent: Will Bosi and 3D Replica Training (2023)
The problem remained unrepeated for more than six years. On April 12, 2023, Scottish climber Will Bosi secured the second ascent. His preparation relied on a specialized indoor training setup:
- High-Resolution 3D Scans: Climber Aidan Roberts used 3D scanning technology to capture the precise texture and topography of the granite holds.
- Plastic Replicas: UK hold manufacturer Core Climbing used the scan data to manufacture plastic duplicates of the five holds.
- Board Simulation: Bosi mounted the plastic holds on a training wall in Sheffield, UK, fixed at the exact 45-degree angle of the original boulder.
Bosi completed simulator sessions indoors before traveling to Finland, where he completed the individual moves during his first outdoor session. He sent the problem after 14 sessions on the actual rock, confirming the 9A grade.
Chronological Ascent History
Subsequent climbers have utilized combinations of replica training, specialized beta, and variable weather strategies to complete the problem:
- Nalle Hukkataival (Finland) – October 23, 2016 (First Ascent)
- Will Bosi (Scotland) – April 12, 2023 (Confirmed the original 9A grade)
- Simon Lorenzi (Belgium) – December 27, 2023 (Utilized an alternative foot sequence)
Sources
https://climbing-history.org/climb/826/burden-of-dreams
https://latticetraining.com/blog/will-bosi-burden-of-dreams
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burden_of_Dreams_(climb)