Bouldering training plan by Lattice

Bouldering training plan by Lattice

How to Write a Training Plan According to Lattice Training

Creating a structured and effective climbing training plan is crucial for improving your performance. Lattice Training provides a methodical approach to designing training plans for climbers at all levels.

Bouldering training

Step 1: Measure Before and After, and Set a Goal

Before diving into any training plan, it’s essential to assess where you currently stand. A few ways to measure your starting point:

1. Grades

  • Use your average climbing grade at your gym as a benchmark.
  • Track progress on a specific project or multiple boulder problems.

2. Testing

Perform specific exercises such as loaded pull-ups or endurance drills to gauge your strength and endurance levels. Lattice has easy self assessments based on 4 metrics: finger strength, power endurance weighted pulls up and hip flexibility. See the crimpd app.

3. Movement

Analyze how you move on the wall using a particular boulder problem as a test, focusing on metrics like how often you cut your feet loose or how comfortable you feel with your body positioning.

Summarize Your Current State:

You would end up with a list as:

  • Climbing grade: V5
  • Max hang: 20mm edge with 20 kg added weight
  • Style: Static movement

Set a Goal

Define where you want to be at the end of your training plan. Examples of goals might include:

  • Climbing grade: Climbing V7
  • Max hangs: Max hangs on a 20mm edge with 28 kg
  • Style: Developing more dynamic movement skills

Step 2: Set a Timeline

A solid training plan requires a clear timeline. Lattice Training breaks this down into cycles for optimal progression:

1. Meso Cycle: Year to Months

This cycle allows you to focus on long-term, specific goals.

For experienced climbers, the progress may be incremental, whereas beginners may see rapid improvement.

For instance, if you want to work on a project with small edges, your meso cycle might center on hangboarding. If you aim to jump from a 7b to an 8a climber, plan for a longer training cycle that accommodates slow, steady progress.

2. Small Increments

Break your meso cycle into smaller blocks. This helps you track progress more effectively and adjust your plan if necessary.

3. Prioritization

Prioritize different types of training throughout your cycle.

For example, you might focus on foundational training during the first few months and shift toward more specific training as your project draws near.

Consider how your personal life affects your training schedule and adjust accordingly.

Step 3: Organize and plan Your Training

When organizing your training sessions, consider the following:

1. Define Your Priorities

Use before and after measurements to focus on areas that need the most improvement.

2. Session Frequency

How many sessions can you commit to per week? Factor in time for motivation, energy levels, and the availability of resources for training.

3. Exercise Selection

Fill your training sessions with exercises that target your goals (e.g., finger strength, endurance, dynamic movement). Add in rest days for recovery.

4. Rest and Recovery weeks

Follow the guideline of 3-4 weeks of intense training followed by 1 week of reduced activity. Rest weeks should allow you to recover while staying active, not complete inactivity.

5. Additional Considerations:

  • Fingers: Your fingers are vulnerable to injury, so build up slowly.
  • Variety: Avoid repetitive movements to prevent overuse injuries.
  • Time Commitment: Be realistic about how much time you can invest. It’s better to train consistently and safely than to risk burnout or injury.
  • Motivation: Find exercises and sessions you enjoy, or mix up your routine to maintain enthusiasm.
  • Intensity vs. Volume: Early in your plan, focus on higher volume and lower intensity. As your training progresses, shift toward higher intensity and lower volume.

By following these steps, you’ll create a structured, goal-oriented training plan that aligns with your climbing ambitions. You can also buy a cusotmised Bouldering training plan by Lattice. Read my experience here.

Source: Lattice Training Video