1977 – Cuvier – Fontainebleau – by Jérôme Jean-Charles – 7b+/V8
The Controversial History of Fontainebleau’s First 7b
In the heart of the Bas-Cuvier sector of Fontainebleau lies a boulder problem that is as infamous as it is historic. Le Carnage is not just a test of physical strength; it is a monument to the evolution of climbing ethics, the breaking of difficulty barriers, and the scarred history of the world’s most famous bouldering forest.
Originally graded 7b (V8) and later upgraded to 7b+ (V8/9), Le Carnage represents a pivotal moment in climbing history.
The First Ascent of Le Carnage: Jérôme Jean-Charles and the 7b Barrier
In 1977, the “Bleau” climbing scene was reaching a plateau. For nearly two decades, the grade of 7a (set by René Dutheil on La Joker in 1953) had stood as the absolute limit.
Jérôme Jean-Charles, a visionary and powerful climber of the era, believed that the natural rock of Fontainebleau had reached its limit. To push the sport into the next grade, he took a controversial step: he manufactured a hold. By chipping a left-hand starting hold into the blank sandstone of Bas-Cuvier, he opened the door to Le Carnage, the forest’s first 7b.
While Jean-Charles’ ascent was a physical breakthrough, it sparked a debate on “sika” (glue) and chipping that continues to this day. Despite the manufactured start, the problem became an essential rite of passage for elite climbers.
A History of Destruction: The Vandalism of 2001
The history of Le Carnage took a dark turn in September 2001. A local climber, reportedly frustrated by the “unnatural” state of the boulder or perhaps seeking to make it an “impossible” project, intentionally vandalized the route.
The individual used a hammer and chisel to destroy the iconic starting holds. This wasn’t a case of a hold breaking under natural use; it was a deliberate attempt to erase the problem from the forest. The climbing community was outraged, as one of the most significant historical lines in the world had been decimated overnight.
Repair and the Grade Evolution: 7b to 7b+
Following the vandalism, the local “Bleausards” refused to let the problem die. Expert repairs were carried out to reconstruct the starting holds to a state as close to the original as possible.
However, the “new” version of the start proved significantly more difficult than Jean-Charles’ 1977 version. The holds were smaller and the movement more desperate. As a result, the consensus grade shifted:
- 1977–2001: 7b (V8)
- Post-Repair: 7b+ (V8/9)
Today, many climbers consider the 7b+ grade to be “sandbagged,” a term used for climbs that feel harder than their official rating, especially given the polished nature of the Bas-Cuvier sandstone.
Climbing Le Carnage: The Beta
Le Carnage is located in Cuvier. The style is: powerful and technical.
- The Start: Most climbers utilize the “sauté” (jump) start or a very high step to reach the reconstructed crimps.
- The Crux: The movement involves a powerful launch to a mediocre sloper/crimp, followed by a difficult match or a dynamic toss to the lip.
- The Top-out: Like many problems in Cuvier, the top-out is terrifyingly “slopy.” On a humid day, the final mantel can be the hardest part of the climb.
Why Le Carnage Matters Today
Despite its manufactured origins and the scars of vandalism, Le Carnage remains a “must-do” for any serious boulderer visiting Fontainebleau. It sits alongside other legendary lines like Marie-Rose (the first 6a) and La Joker (the first 7a) as a chronological map of human progression on rock.
It serves as a reminder of a time when climbers were still figuring out the rules of the game—and a cautionary tale about the permanence of our actions on the rock.
Quick Facts:
Style: Power Endurance / Dyno.
Location: Bas-Cuvier, Fontainebleau, France.
First Ascent: Jérôme Jean-Charles (1977).
First Female Ascent: Dany Riche (1988).
Current Grade: 7b+ (V8/9).
Sources
https://bleau.info/cuvier/253.html
https://bettybeta.com/bouldering/fontainebleau/bas-cuvier/le-carnage
https://climbing-history.org/climb/2518/le-carnage
https://climbing-history.org/climber/1599/j%C3%A9r%C3%B4me-jean-charles
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_grade_milestones_in_rock_climbing
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Site_d%27escalade_de_Fontainebleau
https://climbing-history.org/climber/3371/thierry-bienvenu
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bas_cuvier-1652/le_carnage_white_6t-38147
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/france/fontainebleau/route/518702286
https://vimeo.com/389205257
https://climbingaway.fr/en/climbing-areas/fontainebleau-le-bas-cuvier