Bouldering comes with its own set of unique terms and phrases that capture the movements, techniques, and gear essential to the sport. Whether you’re just starting out or already experienced, knowing these terms will elevate your climbing skills and help you communicate more effectively with others. This guide offers quick, clear insights into key bouldering terms to boost your understanding and performance.
A
Aid
Using artificial assistance as a root of a tree or screw to climb the boulder problem.
Alpine Knee
Refers to the use of one’s knee on a climb. This technique is generally considered awkward and inefficient, as it often indicates a reliance on the knee rather than proper footwork or body positioning.
Antagonistic
The antagonistic muscles are those responsible for pushing as opposed to pulling.
Antihydral
A skin drying agent that reduces the hand’s sweating.
Ape (Index)
Index The difference between your arm span and height.
Example: if you are 175 cm tall, and your wing span (finger tip to finger tip when reaching as wide as possible) is 180 you have a Ape index of +5 (180 – 175)
Approach
Shoe A hybrid between a running shoe and a hiking boot.
Arch
le of the foot that lies between the toes and the ankle. Or a steeply overhanging arete.
Arete
that is formed by the meeting of two planes. The opposite to a corner.
Arm Bar
A crack climbing technique in which an arm is inserted deep into the crack and secured by pressing the palm of the hand against one wall and the tricep/shoulder against the other.
Australian Grade
Australian climbing grade, not used for bouldering.
B
Back and Foot
A method of climbing chimneys in which the back is pressed against one side while the feet push against the other.
Backstep
A smaller version of the drop-knee. Turning your hip into the wall to lean on the outside of your foot on a specific edge.
Barn door
An unintentional, uncontrolled rotation away from the rock.
Barrel Roll
Mantle move, where the body goes entirely horizontal, roll around the bottom arm to get the top arm into position. Foot typically starts in heel hook and moves to flat on the top of the rock with knee bent
Bat Hanging
Hooking both feet on a hold and hanging upside down, often used on steep or horizontal sections to free up the hands.
Beach whaling
A less elegant method of mantling where the climber flops onto the rock, resembling a beached whale. This is often a last resort when other techniques fail.
Belaying
Paying out or taking in the rope while another climber climbs.
Benchmark problem
In bouldering, “Benchmarks” are well-known problems used to assess a climber’s skill and progress. Completing one indicates a certain level of proficiency.
Beta
Specific sequence of how to climb a specific problem is climbed. Mostly used for indoor boulder problems that were designed to do with specific moves.
Beta break
When the intented beta is not used to climb the boulder problem. Mostly used for indoor boulderproblems.
Beastmaker
Hangboard brand.
Bicycle
Double feet position. With one foot pushing on a hold while the other foot toe hooks the same, or a nearby, hold. Most commonly used when climbing roofs (AKA clamp).
Body awareness
In bouldering, body awareness is the ability to control movement, weight distribution, and balance, enhancing efficiency and reducing injury risk.
Body Position
The position of the body relative to the hand and foot holds.
Body Tension
The ability to keep the feet on their foot holds when climbing steep rock. Core strength and technique are components of body tension.
Bolt
On A resin or wood hold that is bolted to the surface of a climbing wall.
Boss
A rounded lump protruding from the rock that can be used as a hand hold.
Boulder
A boulder is a large rock used in bouldering, where climbers scale short, challenging routes without ropes, relying on strength, technique, and crash pads for safety.
Bouldering Pad
A rectangular crash mat also called crash pad that consists of multiple layers of foam covered in a heavy duty material. The pad is placed where the climber is expected to fall to cushion their landing (AKA bouldering mat).
Boulder problem
A boulder problem is a short climbing route under 20 feet, requiring strength, technique, and strategy.
Bleausard(s)
A climber in the forest of Fontainebleau.
Blind climbing drills
Blind climbing is executing a boulder problem without seeing the holds, enhancing muscle memory, proprioception, and hold sensitivity.
Break
A horizontal, often rounded, crack.
Bridging / Elevator door
Between two protruding holds (AKA stemming).
British grade
The B-Scale (British scale) created in the 1958 by John Gill in the United States, during the early days of modern bouldering. At the time, climbers were just beginning to focus on short, intense routes on boulders, as opposed to traditional, longer climbs. More about bouldering grades
Buildering
Bouldering on buildings or other artificial structures.
Bulge
A rounded roof or overhang.
Bump
Making two consecutive hand moves with the same hand (AKA going again).
Buttress
A prominent rock face protruding from a crag.
C
Callouses
Areas of hard skin that can develop on the fingers or palm.
Campus Board
A training device that consists of a small overhanging board crossed by wooden rungs at regular intervals. The idea is to climb it without using the feet so as to develop arm and finger strength.
Campusing
Climbing without using the feet.
Centre of Gravity
The theoretical point where the entire mass of a body is concentrated (abbreviated to CoG).
Chalk
Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO₃) is a white powder that is used to absorb sweat from a climber’s hands.
Chalk Bag
A small pouch for holding chalk that is hung on a belt tied around the waist.
Chalk Ball
A small round mesh bag filled with chalk.
Chalk Bucket
A large chalk bag designed to be left on the ground.
Chalking Up
Coating the hands with chalk.
Cheatstone
A stone placed at the bottom of a problem to bring the starting holds into reach.
Chicken Head
A protruding lump of rock, most common on granite.
Chicken Wing
- A jamming technique in which the arm is bent and inserted into a crack elbow first with the palm pressed against one wall while the tricep/shoulder presses against the other. Similar to an arm bar.
- Chicken-winging is an inefficient climbing technique where the elbow flares outward, wasting energy and reducing control often due to poor body positioning or fatigue.
Chimney
A wide crack that is large enough to climb into.
Chipping
Creating or enhancing a climbing hold. The worst sin a climber can commit.
Choss
Loose, dirty or otherwise unappealing rock.
Chunking
Breaking down a move or problem into small sections to figure out how to climb it.
Circuit
Either a grouping of problems of similar difficulty (most common in Fontainebleau, France) or a long problem, often a loop, climbed on an indoor wall to train endurance.
Climbing Shoes
Tight fitting, rubber covered shoes designed for rock climbing. Invented by Pierre Allain.
Cobble
A hold. Usually rounded and smooth.
Compression
A technique for climbing symmetrical features by placing a hand (or foot) on either side and pulling hard to hold the body in place.
Conditions
The suitability of the temperate, humidity, wind etc. for climbing.
Conglomerate
A sedimentary rock type that is mainly composed of embedded round stones (cobbles).
Contact strength
Rate of force development (RFD) in your fingers. Determined by your absolute strength and the speed of applying this strength in the first 200 ms.
Watch the following videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFe4LyDihDQ&t=513s and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckS7mowjq0c to learn more.
Core
The muscles of the stomach, lower back and legs.
Corner
A feature formed where two planes meet at roughly right angles (AKA dihedral).
Crack climbing
Methods to use cracks to climb. Consists of different methods to jam hands, arms, feet or legs to climb. See following youtube video.
Crag
A generic term for a climbing or bouldering area. May also refer specifically to an outcrop of rock.
Crimp
Using the fingertips to grip small edges; involves significant finger strength.
Cross-Through
A traversing move in which one hand reaches past (over or under) the other to reach the next hold.
Crux
A problem’s hardest move.
Crystal
A small piece of quartz that can be used as a hold, common on some types of granite.
Cusp
A grip in which a protruding hold is squeezed, over the top or around the side, between the fingers and palm, with the fingers on the side nearest the body (AKA guppy).
Cutting
Loose When both feet swing off the rock and all the climber’s weight is taken by the hands.
D
Dab
When, mid ascent, a climber brushes off or hits into their spotter, a tree, the ground, another boulder or a pad.
Deadhang
To hang with straight arms without any assistance from the feet.
Deadpoint
The instant in a movement when the body is moving neither up nor down, the ideal time to grab a hold.
Deep Water Soloing
Climbing above water without a rope, often abbreviated to DWS.
Deload recovery
Deload recovery in bouldering is a reduced-intensity training period that allows muscle repair, prevents overtraining, and minimizes injury risk while maintaining fitness.
Descent Route
The way down from a boulder (AKA downclimb).
Diagonal Stride
Using opposing limbs in coordination.
Double Dyno / double clutch
A dyno in which the target hold or holds are simultaneously grabbed with both hands.
Down Climbing
Reversing down a problem either as a retreat or as a means of getting off a boulder.
Drop-knee
When one foot inside edges while the other outside edges, the knee of the outside edging leg is lowered so that the feet are pushing away from each other rather than down (AKA Egyptian).
Dynamic
Any move that uses momentum.
Dyno
An all out leap during which the whole body is airborne and has, very briefly, no contact with the rock.
E
Edge
A flat horizontal hold.
Edging
Standing on an edge.
Efficient recovery
Capacity is a climber’s ability to rest effectively, manage energy, and control breathing to reduce fatigue and sustain performance.
Egyptian moves
Twists the hips and legs in opposite directions to maximize reach, improve balance, and maintain stability, especially on overhangs.
Eliminate
A contrived problem in which certain holds are deemed off limits to make the climbing harder.
F
Featured Wall
An indoor wall that is designed to resemble real rock.
Figure-Four
A very rarely used technique for making a long static reach from a positive hold. Involves hooking a leg over the holding arm.
Finger Jam
A jam in which the fingers are inserted into a crack and rotated until they are wedged.
Finger Tape
Strong tape designed to provide support to injured fingers.
Fingerboard
A small wooden or resin board covered in hand holds that is hung from to train finger strength. See hangboard(ing).
First Ascent
The first time a boulder problem is climbed.
Fist Jam
A jam in which the fist is inserted into a crack.
Flagging
To dangle one leg in the air or against the wall for balance.
Flake
A thin, partially detached, slice of rock.
Flapper / skin flap
When a large chunk of skin is ripped off, usually during a dynamic move.
Flared
A crack with sides that taper outwards making it very difficult to jam.
Flash
To climb a problem on the first try from start to finish.
Flow state
A mindful state where movement, rhythm, efficient and smooth climbs comes together.
Fontainebleau
Grading system boulder problems, the grade is often prefixed with ‘Font‘.
One of the most popular bouldering crags.
Foot Cam
A technique in which the foot is rotated around the heel until it wedges, works well in horizontal cracks or breaks .
Foot Jam
A jamming technique in which the foot is wedged, toes first, into a crack.
Foot Swap / switch
Replacing one foot for another on a foot hold.
Footwork
The art of using the feet well.
Forarm endurance
The ability to maintain grip strength over time.
French grade
Measures overall difficulty, considering technical moves, endurance, and exposure. It is widely used in Europe and internationally recognized.
French start
When a climber begins with hands on the start holds and one or both feet on the ground, then jumps up and immediately moves a hand to the next hold. This technique is often used when a static start is difficult or inefficient.
Friction
The force created when skin or rubber is pressed into the rock.
Frogging
Getting the hips parallel and as close as possible to the wall with the knees pointing out to the sides.
Front Lever
A strength exercise that involves hanging from a bar, raising the body so it’s horizontal and holding that position for as long as possible.
Front Pointing
Standing on a hold with the tip of the big toe.
Full-body Stem
Climbing a very wide crack with the hands on one wall and feet on the other.
Full crimp
Grip technique, with the thumb pressing over the index finger for added support. This position maximizes grip strength on small edges but puts high strain on the tendons and can increase the risk of injury.
G
Gabbro
A coarse grained, rough igneous rock.
Gaston
Gripping a vertical hold with the arm bent at the elbow and the hand, thumb down, pulling the hold away from the body.
Golfer’s Elbow
Aches and pains in the inside of the elbows caused by a lack of balance between the pushing and pulling muscles.
Grades
An indication of how difficult it is to climb a problem assuming good conditions and the best sequence.
Granite
A rough, igneous rock that consists mainly of quartz, mica, and feldspar.
Gritstone
A hard, coarse grained form of sandstone (AKA grit).
Grip strength
The ability of the fingers and forearms to generate and sustain force while holding onto various climbing holds. It is crucial for maintaining control, executing dynamic moves, and preventing fatigue on challenging routes.
Groove
A shallow corner.
Ground Up
Attempting and climbing a problem or route without inspecting it from a rope and starting from the ground on each attempt.
Guidebook AKA Topo
A book containing information about a bouldering area (or areas) including details of the problems, directions, maps and photos.
H
Half Crimp
A versatile grip in which the fingers are partially bent. It’s a compromise between open handing and crimping and is particularly useful on flat holds.
Hand Stacking
An advanced technique for hand jamming in offwidth cracks.
Hand Jam
A jam in which an open hand is inserted into a crack and pressed against the sides with the knuckles against one side, fingertips and palm against the other. See crack climbing for more information.
Hangboard(ing)
Handboarding, also known as fingerboarding, is an essential training tool that climbers actively use to enhance finger strength and grip endurance. Crafted from materials like wood or resin, these compact boards feature a variety of holds and edges designed to mimic real climbing grips. By hanging from these holds and performing targeted exercises, climbers can significantly boost finger strength and coordination. Additionally, handboarding isolates and strengthens specific muscles, making it a key component of any climber’s training regimen. It’s especially useful for those aiming to excel in bouldering and sport climbing, where finger strength plays a crucial role in overall success.
Introduction to hangboarding by Neil Gresham https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwSgwBDZDKI
Headpointing
Climbing a route or problem after rehearsing the moves on a top rope first.
Heel cam
A heel hook that is used as a cam. A heel jammed in a hold that offers enough edge to pull the body closer to the wall.
Heel Hooking
Placing the heel of the foot on a hold and using it like an extra hand to gain hight or stability.
Heel-toe Jam
A jam used in wide cracks.
Heel-toe matches
Using both the heel and toe of the same foot to secure a hold, providing stability and leverage. This technique helps maintain balance on tough routes and conserves energy by distributing weight efficiently.
Highball
Most boulder problems are 4/5 meters high, when exeeding this hight a boulder is called a highball.
Have a look at some highballs from Alex Honnold and Toby Segar:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SouOFrrIRKU
Any surface feature or attachment on a climbing wall or rock that climbers use to grip with their hands or step on with their feet. Holds come in various shapes and sizes, including crimps, slopers, jugs, and pinches, each requiring different grip techniques to maintain control and progress on a route.
Hold visualization
The practice of mentally mapping out holds and movements before climbing to plan the best sequence. This technique helps climbers anticipate challenges, optimize energy use, and reduce unnecessary adjustments on the wall.
Houdini
This move involves switching hands when matching is not possible due to the nature of the holds or body position. The arms start in a crossed position, and the movement requires uncrossing them. This is achieved by momentarily releasing both hands from their holds and placing them on the opposite holds in a controlled motion.
Hueco
The Hueco Grade is a bouldering grading system from Hueco Tanks, Texas, ranging from V0 (easy) to V17 (hardest known). Named after climber John “Vermin” Sherman, it helps climbers gauge problem difficulty before attempting them.
I
Inside Edge
The straight edge running along the inside of the big toe.
Intermediate
A small hold that is used briefly during a reach to a distant hold.
J
The Janja
In bouldering, the term “Janja move” refers to a dynamic climbing technique popularized by Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret. This move, often called the “Janja Flick,” involves dynamically catching a hold while arching backward, with the climber’s leg flicking behind in a scorpion-like motion. This distinctive style showcases Garnbret’s exceptional agility and strength on the wall.
Jamming
Wedging a body part into a crack. See crack climbing.
Japanese Grade
A bouldering grading system in Japan.
Jug
A large incut hold (AKA bucket).
Juggy
A boulder problem that is composed of jug holds.
Jump
Dynamic move when both feet leave the rock.
Jump Start
Jumping from the ground to the starting holds of a problem (AKA French start).
K
Kilter board / Moon board / Tension board
A type of climbing training tool designed to improve strength, technique, and overall climbing performance. It’s a specialized type of climbing wall equipped with adjustable holds and an integrated LED lighting system.
Key features include:
- Adjustable Holds: The Boards feature a flexible grid of holds that climbers can easily reposition in different orientations. This flexibility enables climbers to create a wide range of routes and problems, making it suitable for all skill levels. Both beginners and advanced climbers can set custom routes to challenge themselves.
- LED Lighting System: The Board includes an integrated LED lighting system that highlights specific holds or sequences. This system guides climbers through training exercises by displaying customized routes, making the training experience highly interactive.
- App Integration: Many Boards connect to mobile apps that provide access to a vast library of climbing problems and personalized training programs. These apps track progress, offer suggestions for improvement, and connect users with the larger climbing community, enhancing the training experience.
- Training Tools: The Board functions as a versatile platform that supports targeted training sessions. Climbers can focus on techniques, strength-building, and endurance, allowing them to sharpen specific skills based on their goals.
- Community and Competition: Some Boards link to an online network where climbers can compete, compare scores, and share achievements. This connection fosters community and friendly competition, motivating climbers to improve continuously.
- Customizability: With adjustable holds and a programmable LED system, the Board offers a high degree of customizability. Climbers and route setters can create or replicate a wide variety of climbing challenges, making each session unique.
- Overall: The Board is a cutting-edge training tool that merges climbing with technology. Its dynamic, adaptable platform makes it a popular choice in climbing gyms and training centers, helping climbers enhance their skills in diverse ways.
Kilterboard challange: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcQk9_lpMJo
Moonboard introduction: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQ6h244QsCQ
Comparing the three boards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REoZSn-znlc
Kipping
Kicking the legs to generate momentum when hanging from the arms.
Kneebars
A jam that leverages between foot and knee. The foot stands on a conventional hold while the knee (really the front or side of the lower thigh) presses into a corner, overlap or large protruding hold.
Knee scum
in bouldering is a technique where the climber presses the inside of their knee against a hold or rock for added stability. It helps maintain balance and friction, especially on overhangs or sparse holds.
L
Ladder climbing
Beginner technique where climbers ascend using handholds and footholds in a straight-up motion, similar to climbing a ladder.
Lace Ups
Climbing shoes that are fastened with laces.
Landing
The landing zone beneath a problem.
Launch Pad
A small bouldering pad that is designed to protect the start of a problem or as a supplement to other larger pads.
Layback
A technique for climbing continuous vertical features such as cracks, flakes or aretes, that relies on opposition created by pulling with the hands and pushing with the feet (AKA liebacking).
Limestone
A sedimentary rock composed of skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral.
Limit bouldering drill
A training exercise where climbers attempt problems at their maximum difficulty to improve strength, technique, and problem-solving. By working on short, powerful routes with repeated attempts, they identify weaknesses and develop strategies to progress.
Link Up
Combining sections or whole problems together to create a more difficult challenge.
Linking
Practising sections of a problem to prepare for the complete ascent from start to finish.
Liquid Chalk
A mix of alcohol and chalk that is rubbed into the hands to coat them with chalk.
Lock Off
A static reach done with the holding arm bent sharply.
Lowball
A low or short boulder problem.
M
Mantle
A method of getting from hanging the lip of a boulder or ledge to standing on it (short for mantel-shelf). Also a verb, “mantel the ledge“.
Matching
Placing both hands of feet side by side on a hold (AKA sharing).
Meat hook
A typical way to grab a big hold where the hand drapes over the hold. Palm and hand are fully in contact with the hold.
Micro hold
Tiny climbing holds that require precise finger strength, technique, and balance to grip effectively.
Midnight Lightning
Mantle move, starts as a lieback and sidepulls to get the weight over the hand and foot.
Momentum swing
Body movements that generate motion, allowing climbers to reach holds beyond their static reach, especially in dynamic moves and overhangs.
Mono
A small pocket that can only fit one finger.
Monzonite
An igneous rock type, similar to granite.
Moonboard
See kilterboard
Moon kick
Swinging or kicking the legs to generate momentum, useful on steep routes or when hanging.
Morpho
A climb or move whose difficulty is highly dependent on the body shape or size of the climber. Usually code for “hard for the short”.
N
Near-invible holds
Are small, subtle climbing features that require keen observation, touch, and advanced techniques to locate and use effectively.
No Hands Rest
Rest locations that can be used without the use of hands. Such as a kneebar.
O
An excellent resting position that doesn’t require use of the hands.
Offwidth
A crack that is too wide to jam but too narrow to climb inside.
One arm hang
A training exercise where climbers hang from a single arm on a hold or hangboard to build grip strength, finger strength, and arm endurance for holding difficult positions.
One-arm lockoffs
A strength-intensive climbing technique where a climber holds a bent-arm position with one arm to stabilize and reach for the next hold, requiring significant upper body strength and control.
Open (hand)
Hand Gripping a hold with the fingers only slightly bent.
Opposition
Creating tension either by pulling a pair of holds that face away from each other or pushing on a pair of holds that face each other.
Outside Edge
The curved section of a climbing shoe between the tip of the big toe and the side of the little toe.
Outwards facing
Refers to a body positioning technique where the climber’s chest is facing away from the wall instead of toward it. This is necessary in specific situations where turning outward provides better balance or reach.
Over Gripping
Holding on with the hands harder then necessary, wasting strength and energy.
Overhanging
Rock that is steeper than vertical.
Overlap
A small roof.
P
Pad (finger)
Refers to the soft underside of the fingers, with climbers using terms like half-pad or full-pad to describe how much of the finger pad contacts a hold, helping assess grip quality and move difficulty.
Paddle dyno
A Paddle Dyno is a dynamic climbing move where the climber initiates a jump while using intermediary holds to “paddle” or push themselves upward before reaching the final target hold. It is often seen in modern bouldering, especially in competition-style problems that require coordination, momentum, and precise timing.
Palming / palm down
Pressing the palm of the hand onto the rock.
Parkour
A physical discipline that focuses on movement around obstacles by vaulting, rolling, running, climbing, and jumping (AKA free running).
Patioing
Improving a landing by shifting rocks.
Pebbles
Tiny stones protruding from the surface of the rock, most common on gritstone.
Peter pan
In climbing and bouldering, the “Peter Pan” move refers to a dynamic technique where a climber’s feet swing off the wall, requiring significant core and shoulder strength to control the movement and reestablish foot placement. This move is particularly useful for developing body tension and enhancing dynamic control during climbs.
The “Peter Pan” drill is an exercise designed to build shoulder strength, core stability, and body awareness. By intentionally allowing the feet to swing off the wall and then pulling them back to reestablish contact, climbers can improve their ability to manage dynamic movements and maintain control during challenging sequences.
Perfect repeat
Drills in bouldering involve repeatedly practicing specific moves or sequences with precision to improve technique, muscle memory, and efficiency.
Pinch
A hand hold that is squeezed between the fingers and thumb.
Piano match
In bouldering, a piano match refers to a specific hand-matching technique used when both hands need to occupy the same hold, but there isn’t enough room to place them side by side at the same time.
A hole in the rock in which you can only insert one or few fingers.
Pof
Dried pine resin that is wrapped in a cloth and slapped onto hand and foot holds. It’s used by a minority of climbers in Fontainebleau but most climbers consider it very damaging to the rock (AKA resin).
Pogo
Swinging or kicking the legs to generate momentum, useful on steep routes or when hanging.
Power Endurance
Power endurance routes in bouldering are long, high-intensity problems that test a climber’s ability to sustain strength and power over multiple challenging moves without fatigue.
Powerful overhangs
Are steeply angled climbs that demand upper body and core strength, dynamic movements, and precise, forceful holds to navigate effectively.
Powerspot
When the spotter takes some of the climber’s weight so they can get the feel of a move.
Problem
A bouldering route.
Project
A problem that has been attempted but hasn’t yet been climbed or a problem that an individual is working towards climbing ie. a personal goal.
Prow
A narrow overhanging arete.
Pumped / pumpy
When the forearms become filled with lactic acid after a hard or sustained climbing. A boulder problem in this category would be qualified as pumpy.
Pyramid training
A structured progression method where climbers build a base with easier problems, gradually tackle harder ones up to their peak difficulty, and then descend back to lower grades to reinforce strength, technique, and confidence.
R
Reading
Analysing how to climb a problem.
Red Herrings
Holds that aren’t essential to the sequence and only serve to distract and confuse.
Redpoint
Successfully completing a climb in one continuous attempt after previous failures, using learned moves and techniques.
Rest positions
Finding body positions that allow muscles to recover, important for longer climbs.
RPE
Rate of Perceived Exertion, mostly rated on a scale of 10, where 10/10 is maximal of what you could fysically do, and 1/10 is effortless.
Source: Lattice training app
Rockover
Placing a foot on a high hold and standing up on it using a combination of pulling with the arms and pushing with the legs.
Roof
An approximately horizontal piece of rock.
Rose move
A more advanced version of the cross-through move involving a drop-knee. Crossing the arms to reach a next hold.
Route reading
Process of analyzing and visualizing a climb beforehand to plan movements, identify key holds, and anticipate challenges for a more efficient ascent.
Rubber
The sticky compound that is used on the soles of climbing shoes.
Run and Jump
A dynamic technique that involves running at the rock, kicking off one or more foot holds and jumping for the hand holds.
S
Sandbag
A problem that is given a significantly lower grade than it deserves. Also a verb, to sandbag, which is to underplay the difficulty of a problem.
Sandstone
A sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized minerals or rock grains.
Screw On
A very small artificial hold, that is screwed rather than bolted to the surface of a climbing wall. Usually used as a foot hold.
Scrunch
Refers to a tight, compressed body position required when holds are close together, demanding flexibility, strength, and precise positioning to navigate confined spaces.
Seam
A narrow or closed crack.
Send
To successfully climb a problem.
Sequence
The details of how a problem is climbed (AKA beta).
Share
To place both hands on the same hold simultaneously.
Shoulder scum
A technique where climbers press their shoulder against the wall or rock for stability, balance, and leverage, often used on overhangs or awkward features to conserve energy.
Sidepull
A vertical hold that faces away from the body.
Silent feet
A technique where climbers place their feet quietly and precisely on holds to improve balance, control, and energy efficiency.
Sit Start
To start a problem from a sitting position, sometimes abbreviated as SS or SDS (sit down start).
Slab / Slabby
A less-than-vertical climbing surface that requires balance, precise footwork, and weight shifting rather than upper body strength.
Slap
A quick reach or lunge during which there is a minimum of two points of contact at all times.
Slippers
Soft climbing shoes.
Sloper / sloppy
Refers to rounded or slippery holds that require friction and precise body positioning rather than a secure grip.
Slot
A narrow horizontal pocket.
Smear / Smearing
Technique where climbers press their shoe against a featureless surface to create friction for balance and upward movement, especially on slabs or smooth walls.
Soapmaker
Mantle move, sort of like a rockover, sideways motion comes from the foot, rather than the hand–because hands are less involved, you actually end up using your chest forward more than hips.
Soloing
Climbing a route without a rope. The complete term is free soloing. One of the most famous free solo climber is Alex Honnold. The following trailer shows his movie “Free Solo”:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urRVZ4SW7WU
Speed climbing
Speed climbing is a discipline in sport climbing where climbers race to ascend a standardized route on an artificial climbing wall. The route is typically vertical and features a series of standardized holds. The goal is to reach the top in the shortest amount of time possible.
Splitter
A long, parallel sided crack.
Sport Climbing
Routes that are protected by clipping the rope to permanent bolts.
Spotting / spot
Person who helps ensure a climber’s safe landing by guiding their fall onto a crash pad, protecting their head and neck without catching them.
Sprag
A grip in which the thumb pushes the rock above the fingers to create more downward force.
Spray Wall
Densely packed climbing wall with randomly arranged holds, allowing climbers to create custom routes for strength, technique, and problem-solving development.
Squat
An exercise for developing leg strength.
Squeak
To thoroughly clean the sole of a climbing shoe.
Stalactites
A limestone tooth that hangs from the ceiling of a roof.
Stamina
The ability to do a large volume of climbing.
Start Hold
The designated handhold or foothold where a climber begins a route, requiring proper positioning before progressing through the problem.
Static
Slow, controlled moves that require precise balance and muscle engagement.
Steep climbing
Involves tackling overhanging routes, often requiring strong upper body engagement, core stability, and dynamic movements to maintain grip and balance.
Stemming / Elevator door
Pressing the legs away from each other to create an opposition force that holds the body in place. Usually done in corners or grooves but can be done between two protruding holds (AKA bridging).
Step up dyno
A Step-Up Dyno is a dynamic move where the climber pushes off a low foothold while explosively reaching for a higher handhold, using leg power to generate upward momentum.
Stepping Thought
Standing (usually with the outside edge) on the next foot hold with the foot furthest from it.
Straight-arm hanging
A technique where climbers keep their arms fully extended to conserve energy by relying on their skeletal structure rather than muscle strength.
Strength-to-weight ratio
Balance between a climber’s strength and body weight, affecting their ability to execute powerful moves and maintain endurance efficiently.
Sustained
Describes a climb with consistent difficulty throughout, requiring continuous effort and endurance without rest sections.
Syenite
A coarse grained igneous rock of similar composition to granite but with a very low amount of chalk.
Systems Board
Board A steep board on which the various hold types – pinch, crimp, sloper, pocket, undercut, sidepull – are laid out in a repeating, symmetrical pattern.
T
Taco
A type of bouldering pad that consists of one continuous section of foam that bends in the middle for transporting.
Technical
A problem that demands a high standard of technique and movement skills.
Technique
Can refer to either a specific type of movement or more generally to a climber’s movement skills – “she has good technique“.
Tennis Elbow
Aches and pains in the outside of the elbows caused by a lack of balance between the pushing and pulling muscles.
Tension board
See Kilter board
Three-dimensional moves
Involve using the entire body to navigate in multiple directions, not just up and down. These moves often require creativity and spatial awareness, utilizing features like volumes, underclings, and roof sections to maintain balance and control.
Three-point contact
Technique where a climber keeps three limbs on the wall at all times to maintain balance, stability, and controlled movement.
Thumbcatch
Improving the grip on a hold by pinching it with the thumb. Mostly small rock features or holds.
Tickmark
A small chalk mark that indicates the location of a hard to see hold.
Toe Hooking or toe catching
Using the top of the toe to pull on a hold for stability, leverage, and balance, especially on overhangs or roofs.
Top Out
The act of standing up and finishing on top of a boulder problem, commonly required in outdoor bouldering. Indoor bouldering often skips this step, as climbers typically jump or downclimb from the finishing hold instead of topping out.
Top Rope
Anchoring the rope at the top of the cliff or boulder so that the climber can climb in safety.
Topo
A map or photo upon which the line taken by a problem (or problems) is marked.
Trad Climbing
Climbing a route protected by gear that has been placed by the leader.
Training Board
A small, steep wooden climbing wall (AKA woodie).
Traverse
A problem that travels predominantly sideways.
Tufas
A limestone rib. An elongated, pipe-like shape that climbers pinch, wrap around, or use with heel and toe hooks for support.
Turning the Lip
The process of getting from hanging from the lip of a roof to standing on the lip.
Twist-locking
A technique for climbing steep ground in which the torso twists perpendicular to the rock to maximise reach.
U
Undercling
Undercling a downward facing hold, underclinging is the technic to use this hold.
Undercut
Undercut a downward facing hold, underclinging is the technic to use this hold.
V
V V-grade V-scale
Grade An American system for grading problems, consisting of a number prefixed by the letter V, the higher the number the more difficult the problem.
Velcros
Climbing shoes that are fastened with velcro straps.
Vertical face climbing
Climbing a near-vertical surface with an angle between 85 to 90 degrees, requiring balance, technique, and precise footwork.
Volcanic Tuff
A rock type consisting of consolidated ash ejected from a volcano.
Volume
A large, hollow plywood or resin hold (usually triangular or rounded), upon which other holds can be mounted.
W
Wall
A roughly vertical piece of rock.
Warm-up
A routine to prepare the mind and body for climbing.
Wire Brush
A very aggressive wire bristled brush that should never be used to clean rock.
Wired
Having a problem mastered (AKA dialled).
Working
Figuring out and rehearsing the moves of a problem.
Worst-hold training
A practice where climbers deliberately use their most challenging holds to improve grip strength, technique, and overall resilience.
Y
Yabo start
Yabo start is the name used for a sit start at Joshua Tree USA.
Yabo was the Nickname of John Yablonski who apparently invented the sit start. Legend in the 80 and 70ies. Who thought the best way to start a boulder was sitting with your ass being the last of your body touching the ground. Yabo Roof is apparently the first sit start left too is by Yabo. https://youtube.com/shorts/70IE6j4912I?si=p4XLofS8Kn8aku0b
Sources:
https://threerockbooks.com/bouldering-terms/
Cathalist climbing 1 and 2
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/climbing-techniques.html
https://www.psychi.co.uk/blogs/climbing/7-bouldering-climbing-moves-for-beginners
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/v9sf77/library_of_all_face_climbing_techniques_with/
https://www.climbgrades.com/BoulderingDefinitions