Pioneer of Modern Bouldering and the First 6a Ascent at Fontainebleau
Introduction
René Ferlet (1920 – 1989) stands among the historic figures in the evolution of bouldering, particularly through his milestone ascent of La Marie-Rose in 1946. This boulder problem remains one of the most iconic in the Fontainebleau forest and a benchmark in the discipline’s development.
Early Life and Climbing Background
René Ferlet was born in Accolay, France, on November 11, 1920, and passed away on April 9, 1989. He was primarily known as an alpinist who contributed to both mountain climbing and bouldering at a pivotal time in climbing history. Before World War II, Ferlet met fellow climber Pierre Allain in 1939 at the Fontainebleau boulders, marking the start of lifelong involvement in the climbing community.
Ferlet’s mountaineering achievements extended beyond Fontainebleau, including participation in notable alpine ascents such as the Walker Spur on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 1946. His climbing experience was diverse, extending from technical alpinism to the unroped challenges of bouldering.
The Historic First Ascent of La Marie-Rose
In 1946, René Ferlet completed the first recorded ascent of the boulder problem La Marie-Rose at Bas-Cuvier in the Fontainebleau forest. A testemony to his climbing skills. This ascent is historically significant because it is regarded as the first boulder problem to be graded 6a in Fontainebleau.
La Marie-Rose quickly became one of the most renowned classics in Fontainebleau due to its technical slab climbing and enduring legacy. The problem was originally graded 6b at the time of Ferlet’s ascent, but with the improvement of climbing shoes, this boulder was easier to ascent and thus downgraded to 6a.
Legacy in Fontainebleau and Bouldering Culture
The significance of Ferlet’s first ascent extends beyond a single route. La Marie-Rose represents a turning point in the codification of difficulty in bouldering, helping to establish grading conventions that influenced later generations of climbers. It has retained its status as a classic and historical ascent in the global climbing narrative.
The ascent also solidified Ferlet’s reputation within the Fontainebleau climbing community, aligning him with other influential figures like Pierre Allain, who himself pioneered early hard ascents and innovations in climbing technique and equipment.
Sources
Climbingaway.fr
Wikipedia
Climbing
Wikipedia about fontainebleau
Wikipedia on history of bouldering
Wikipedia on the group of bleau