Edging
Edging in climbing or bouldering is a fundamental footwork technique that involves using the edge of your climbing shoe on small holds. Climbers use different parts of the edge, typically the inside or outside, to make controlled and precise placements, which can improve balance, and control.
Make your contactsurface as large as possible. Depending on your situation, evaluate if you need to drop or elevate your heel. Its also dependant of your shoe type.
Types of Edging
1. Inside Edging:
• Involves pressing the inner edge of the shoe onto a hold.
• Provides strong, stable contact, especially useful on vertical walls.
• Allows the climber to keep hips closer to the wall for balance.
2. Outside Edging:
• Using the outer edge of the shoe to press against a foothold.
• Often used when the inside edge is inconvenient or the route requires an open stance.
• Requires ankle flexibility but is helpful on certain angles and holds.
3. Front-pointing (Toe Edging):
• Uses the very tip of the shoe to grip small footholds.
• Often applied on steep or overhung terrain where the foot points directly into the rock.
Technique Tips for Effective Edging
• Positioning: Place your toe precisely on the hold, aiming to make full contact with the edge for maximum friction. Sometimes it helps to place part of the toe on the wall.
• Focus on Footwork: Look at your foot placement as you edge, ensuring each movement is deliberate and precise.
• Practice Static Balance: Use controlled movements rather than jumping or dropping onto edges, which reduces the risk of slipping.
Suggested Videos
1. “Rock Climbing: Climbing Techniques” by Howcast – Brief video on edging and other basic climbing techniques.
2. “Intermediate climbing footwork technique: inside & outside edging, toes and heels” by Lattice training.
3. “Slab climbing 101” by Lattice training, starting at 4:20 for edging.
Exercises to practice your footwork
Silent Climbing: Aim to climb without making any sound—each move and every step on the wall should be silent. As you place each foot, do it slowly and precisely, ensuring it lands exactly where you want it. Focus on controlled, intentional movements.
This exercise helps you develop awareness of your footwork, enhancing your precision and control with each placement.