1978 – Pueblo – Colorado – U.S. – by John Gill – 7c+/V10
Uncovering the World’s First V10 Bouldering Problem
Before professional climbing was a career path, one man was redefining the limits of human movement on rock. That man was John Gill, and the problem was The Groove.
Established in 1978 in Pueblo, Colorado, The Groove is widely recognized by climbing historians as the world’s first V10 (7C+).
Who is John Gill? The Father of Modern Bouldering
To understand The Groove, you first have to understand John Gill. Often referred to as the “Father of Modern Bouldering,” Gill brought a gymnastic sensibility to rock climbing in the 1950s and 60s. He was the first to use chalk (gymnastic magnesium carbonate) on his hands and the first to view bouldering not just as practice for “real” climbing, but as an independent pursuit of power and grace.
By 1978, while most of the climbing world was focused on alpinisme and multi-pitch trad routes, Gill was pushing the technical ceiling on short, explosive problems.
John Gill stands as the pioneer of bouldering’s echelons, who pushed the limits of human performance decades before the sport gained mainstream recognition. Gill was systematically dismantling barriers of difficulty through his unique gymnastic approach and immense functional strength. He establishing the world’s first 7B (V8) with his 1959 ascent of Red Cross and pushing further to claim the first 7C (V9), he reached a staggering crescendo in 1978. With the first ascent of The Groove in Pueblo, Colorado, Gill successfully conquered the world’s first 7C+ (V10), solidifying his legacy.
The Physicality of The Groove
The Groove isn’t just about small holds; it’s about dynamic momentum. Gill described the move as a singular, powerful lunge or “reach” that required perfect timing and core tension.
Historians at Climbing Magazine and HardClimbs.info note that the problem is so strenuous that repeat attempts have resulted in significant physical strain for modern climbers, including torn cartilage. It remains a “bench-mark” problem that demands respect from anyone who dares to pull onto its holds.
Legacy and Impact of The Groove
According to the UK Bouldering Wiki and Wikipedia’s Grade Milestones, The Groove is the earliest entry for the V10 grade globally. It effectively moved the needle for what was considered possible, proving that human beings could execute incredibly difficult, isolated movements if they trained specifically for power.
Key Milestones in John Gill’s Career:
- Late 1950s: Introduced chalk and dynamic movement to climbing.
- 1961: Climbed The Thimble (V4/V5), a highball solo that was decades ahead of its time.
- 1978: Climbed The Groove, setting the world’s first V10 standard.
Summary Table: The Groove at a Glance
| Metric | Details |
| First Ascent (FA) | John Gill |
| Date | 1978 |
| Location | Pueblo, Colorado (Little Owl Canyon) |
| Modern Grade | V10 / 7C+ |
Sources
https://ukbouldering.fandom.com/wiki/World_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_grade_milestones_in_rock_climbing
https://www.climbing.com/culture-climbing/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/
https://threerockbooks.com/interview-with-john-gill/
https://hardclimbs.info/climbers/john-gill/
https://wspinanie.pl/film/john-gill-legacy-series-cz-4/