1914 – Dame Jouanne – Fontainebleau – by Jacques de Lépiney – 4/V0
Iconic Boulder Problem in Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau, France, is a mecca for boulderers worldwide, and among its many legendary problems, Arête de Larchant stands out as a historic monumental line. Known for its striking position, hight (12 meters), and historical significance.
Location and Approach
Arête de Larchant is located in the La Dame Jouanne sector Fontainebleau. The boulder sits on solid Fontainebleau sandstone, offering natural features that make the climb both challenging and rewarding. The problem is a classic high ball, making the hight the biggest challange.
Difficulty and Grade
Arête de Larchant is typically graded 4 depending on the exact line taken and the climber’s style. While the start may seem accessible to intermediate climbers, the top-out requires careful planning and fluid movement. Fontainebleau grades can feel sandbagged compared to gym ratings, so climbers should prepare for subtle technical sequences rather than brute strength.
History
Jacques de Lépiney, a pioneering French climber, is credited with the first ascent of Arête de Larchant in 1913 or 1914, tackling the sharp arête without ropes or modern protection. At a time when bouldering was still emerging as a distinct discipline, de Lépiney demonstrated remarkable boldness and technical skill, relying solely on balance, strength, and careful footwork. His ascent marked one of the early milestones in Fontainebleau’s climbing history and helped establish the area as a hub for adventurous and innovative climbers.
Recommendations
I would not recommend to climb this historical boulder to anyone. With its hight of 12 meters climbing it comes as great dangers.