Bouldering and climbing involve a wide variety of hold types, each presenting its own unique challenges and requiring different techniques. From large, easy-to-grip jugs to the more precise and demanding crimps, climbers must adapt their skills to navigate the various holds encountered on the wall. Understanding the different types of holds—such as pinches, slopers, pockets, and volumes—helps climbers improve their technique and problem-solving abilities, making each climb more efficient and enjoyable. This guide provides an overview of common bouldering and climbing hold types, helping climbers build the strength, balance, and coordination needed to excel in both bouldering and sport climbing.
Jugs
Jugs are large, positive holds that provide an easy, secure grip. Resembling handles or large containers, they are perfect for beginners because they are not only easy to spot but also offer the most comfort when gripping. As a result, they are often used on easier routes or as resting holds on more challenging climbs.
Crimps
Crimps, on the other hand, are small and often shallow holds that demand precise finger strength. They typically feature a small edge or lip, forcing climbers to carefully position their fingers and engage their finger muscles to support their body weight. As climbers progress, mastering crimps becomes essential for tackling more technical routes. The smallest of these holds are called micro holds and near visible holds.
Pinches
Pinches require a completely different approach, as they involve squeezing the hold between your fingers and thumb. These holds come in various shapes and sizes, adding complexity to routes as climbers must engage their hand and forearm muscles to maintain grip. Transitioning from crimps to pinches challenges climbers to adapt their grip technique constantly.
Slopers
In contrast, slopers offer no distinct edge or ledge to grip, relying solely on body positioning and friction. Climbers must maintain balance and apply body tension to stay on the hold. As slopers require more full-body engagement, they introduce a new level of difficulty and reward precise movement and body control.
Edges
Edges, although narrow and sharp, demand a delicate balance between footwork and hand placement. Climbers must distribute their weight carefully across these small surfaces, which challenges their ability to make precise movements. Transitioning from slopers to edges demands a higher level of precision and control in both hands and feet.
To stand on edges most climbers I know prefer climbings shoes with stiff rubber. Although I have seen professional climbers from Japan using soft shoes for these.
Pockets
Pockets introduce yet another variation, as these are indentations in the wall designed for climbers to grip using one or more fingers. Because they come in varying depths and orientations, pockets require climbers to adjust their grip style constantly, adding complexity to the route. The transition from edges to pockets emphasizes the importance of finger strength and adaptability.
Volumes
Volumes are entirely different, as they are large, three-dimensional structures that are mounted on the climbing wall. They provide additional surface area and create a dynamic challenge, as they can be used as handholds, footholds, or obstacles. Moving between regular holds and volumes forces climbers to think creatively and adapt their technique.
Gaston
The Gaston technique, which involves pushing outward on a hold with the hand positioned sideways, is often used in corners or vertical walls. It introduces a unique challenge because it requires using opposing force to maintain balance. Transitioning into a Gaston forces climbers to shift from pulling to pushing movements, adding a new element of difficulty.
Underclings
Finally, underclings require the climber to pull upward with an underhand grip, which is particularly challenging when the hold faces downward. These holds demand strong pulling muscles and are often used on overhangs, where body positioning becomes critical. The transition into an undercling can be physically demanding, but mastering this technique greatly enhances climbing efficiency.
Each of these Bouldering and climbing holding types requires climbers to develop a wide range of skills, constantly transitioning between strength, precision, and body control to conquer increasingly complex routes. Mastering the interplay between these hold types builds a climber’s overall technique and versatility on the wall.