Fontainebleau’s Historic First 7a Boulder
La Joker is one of the most historically significant boulder problems in Fontainebleau, France, widely recognized as the first 7a (Fontainebleau grading) established in the forest. It was first climbed by Robert Paragot in 1953, marking a milestone in global bouldering history.
Location: Bas Cuvier, Fontainebleau
Located in the Bas Cuvier sector of the Fontainebleau forest, It is part of the white circuit, problem nr 13 on local topographic. La Joker sits within a classic circuit of sandstone problems that have defined modern bouldering. Its grade reflects not only physical difficulty but also its role as a benchmark for progressive climbing standards.
Grading History and Evolution
When Paragot first completed the problem, he suggested a grade of 6f or VI h under early grading systems, which were adaptations of the pre-war Welzenbach I-VI scale. Over time — particularly after the adoption of the seventh grade and rationalization of the Fontainebleau scale — the route has been retroactively classified as VII- and translated to 7a.
The climb’s significance extends beyond its grade: it represents one of the earliest instances where a boulder reached difficulty levels previously only approached on roped alpine routes. Consequently, it helped establish Fontainebleau as an international bouldering destination and influenced grading systems worldwide.
Modern climbers still seek out La Joker not just for its grade but for its cultural and historical value — a living piece of climbing heritage in one of the sport’s most revered landscapes.