1975 – Flagstaff Mountain – Boulder Colorado – by Jim Holloway – 8a+/V12
Trice is first ascended by Jim Holloway in 1975 on Flagstaff Mountain near Boulder, Colorado, the line was ahead of its time. Modern climbers consider it 8A+ (V12), making it one of the earliest boulder problems at that level and, according to many, the first 8A+ in history.
Remarkably, the problem remained unrepeated for 32 years, highlighting just how revolutionary Holloway’s ascent was. Today, Trice is recognized as a milestone in the evolution of modern bouldering, introducing a new era of dedicated projecting, specialized training, and elite-level difficulty.
Quick Facts
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Name | Trice |
| Location | Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, Colorado, USA |
| First Ascent | Jim Holloway |
| Year | 1975 |
| Modern Grade | 8A+ (V12) |
| Rock Type | Sandstone |
| Alternative Names | Another Holloway Route (AHR), Hell |
| Historical Significance | Widely regarded as the first 8A+ boulder problem |
The Birth of Trice
According to Holloway, he simply called the line “Trice.” Over the years, other climbers referred to it as Another Holloway Route (AHR) or simply Hell, reflecting both its difficulty and its intimidating reputation.
He trained specifically for individual moves, developed homemade finger-strength devices, and repeatedly returned to problems until he succeeded. This philosophy fundamentally changed how climbers approached difficult boulders.
Why Trice Was So Difficult
Although Trice is relatively short, every move is demanding.
The climb begins on small undercling holds that require exceptional finger strength simply to lift off the ground. From there, powerful body positioning and precise movement are needed to continue through the sequence.
Unlike many modern boulders, there are no easy sections where a climber can recover. Every movement requires maximum effort, making the problem a benchmark of pure power climbing.
Thirty-Two Years Without a Repeat
Perhaps the strongest evidence of Trice’s extraordinary difficulty is how long it remained unrepeated.
From its first ascent in 1975 until 2007, no climber managed to repeat the line.
Finally, Carlo Traversi completed the long-awaited second ascent after 32 years. Shortly afterwards, additional ascents followed from climbers including:
- James Pearson
- Daniel Woods
- Dave Graham
- Nina Williams
Once elite climbers understood the sequence and modern training methods had evolved, Trice became a repeatable—but still highly respected—classic.
Flagstaff Mountain: A Historic Crag
Trice is located on Flagstaff Mountain, overlooking Boulder, Colorado.
The area has long been regarded as one of the birthplaces of American bouldering. Before Holloway, pioneers such as John Gill established numerous problems in Colorado and introduced gymnastics-inspired movement and chalk to climbing.
Holloway built upon this foundation by dramatically increasing the physical difficulty of boulder problems, helping transform the sport into what it is today.