Fontainebleau was sometimes called the “Alps of Paris.” Many climbers saw the forest as a training ground for expeditions to the real Alps. Fontainebleau boulder forest situated 50 kilometers to the southeast of Paris. 30000 hectares in two counties: Essonne and Seine et Marne. Its also described as the biggest county in France. Fontainebleau forest stands as one of Europe’s premier bouldering destinations, renowned for its exceptional climbing opportunities. It contains around 27,000 boulders, more than half of which are considered suitable for climbing.
Nulle part on ne saurait mieux apprendre à grimper.
Nowhere could one learn to climb better.
Jacques Wehrlin about Fonteinebleau
Table of contents
Location
Fontainebleau offers an array of sandstone boulders, nestled in picturesque forested settings with soft, sandy landings. With over 200 distinct climbing areas, you have the flexibility to explore a new spot each day or dedicate your time to a single location. Notably, the western areas like Bas Cuvier, Apremont, and Franchard are particularly popular. While some locales boast extensive problem sets and circuits, others are more intimate and less frequented, such as 95.2, Apremont, and Gorge des Chats, which also dry quickly after rain.
Spread across a 20-kilometer radius, these boulders and their associated amenities require a bit of travel if you wish to experience various spots. Fortunately, a network of roads and forest paths makes navigation feasible. Moreover, major climbing areas often provide convenient parking options, ensuring easy access and minimising your walking distance.
Quick impression of fontainebleau: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bh6y-APMS9Q
Don’t trust the grading, but have fun trying and failing
While Fontainebleau offers challenges tailored to various climbing styles, it has gained a reputation for its slippy slopers, tricky micro-crimps, nerve-wracking top-outs, and physically demanding sequences. Although the Fontainebleau grading system is in place, do not fixate too much on grades.
The boulders are placing a significant emphasis on precise beta. This task is further complicated in popular areas where holds tend to be smooth and less grippy. If it’s your first visit to the forest, don’t be discouraged if you find boulder grades to be more challenging compared to your own gym or other crags. Focus on climbs that feel comfortable for you, regardless of their designated grade.
The gradings are indicated by colours, ranging from white for children, to yellow, orange, blue, red, and black for progressively more challenging climbs.
Circuits
One of Fontainebleau’s standout features for bouldering enthusiasts is the abundance of meticulously hand-painted circuits. These are organized sets of around 20 to 50 problems in a specific area, with distinct colours denoting varying levels of difficulty. Within each circuit, you’ll encounter a diverse range of climbing styles, complemented by arrow markers guiding you to the subsequent route (although their accuracy may vary). Part of the enjoyment lies in the adventure of locating the next starting point. While these circuits provide an excellent endurance challenge, it’s wise not to overexert yourself attempting to complete one in a single day!
Respect nature
In any climbing destination or natural setting, respect is essential, but this holds particular weight in Fontainebleau. Due to its high popularity, many of the climbing routes are experiencing significant wear and tear. To help preserve the forest during your visit, consider the following:
- Don’t climb wet surfaces, as it may lead to holds breaking.
- Before starting your climb, gently brush the rock to remove any sand or debris.
- Similarly, make sure to brush your feet.
- Use chalk sparingly to minimise its impact.
- Take measures to safeguard the broader forest environment:
- Avoid camping in wooded areas.
- Stick to designated walking trails.
- Be mindful not to disturb the local wildlife.
- Carry out all your waste.
- Refrain from creating fires.
Paper Topos
| Title | Description | Routes included | Review | Link to buy |
| Fun bloc bouldering | An off-circuit guide with more than 7,000 problems graded from 1a to 8c covering the most visited areas of the forest. It’s a great book for mixed abilities and groups because of the large grade variety and as it tends to stick to the larger, more popular areas. | 7000 | Great starter kit, looks like everybody climbing there has them. Still sometimes its difficult to find your way. | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fontainebleau-Fun-Bloc-Bouldering-Photo-guide/dp/1873665156/ https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/fontainebleau-fun-bloc/1001004010931764/ |
| Fontainebleau Climbs: The Finest Bouldering and Circuits | This covers more than 100 different circuits with around 3,000 problems and gives information on each area along with topographic maps. | 3000 | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fontainebleau-Climbs-Finest-Bouldering-Circuits/dp/1594857709/ | |
| Fontainebleau Top Secret | Away from the crowded places there are plenty of spots. | 5000 | https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/fontainebleau-top-secret/9200000056113017/ https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1873665237 | |
| Bleau Blocs | 100 of the finest boulder problems in the Fontainebleau forest | 100 | https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/bleau-blocs/9300000017184991/ | |
| Fontainebleau Bouldering Off-Piste | Boulders graded 6 and above | 3000 | https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/fontainebleau-bouldering-off-piste/1001004002934620/ | |
| Topoboek Fontainebleau 5 + 6 deel 2, Bart van Raaij | Dutch topo with boulders graded 5 and 6 | 3000 | https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/topoboek-fontainebleau-5-6-deel-2-bart-van-raaij/9200000045389481/ | |
| Essential Fontainebleau: A Stone Country Bouldering Guide | A guide for first time visitors of fontainebleau. | ? | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0992887607 | |
| Only available second hand | ||||
| Fontainebleau ClimbsThe Finest Bouldering and Circuits | https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/f/fontainebleau-climbs/37546921/ |
Digital Topos
Most digital topos do name many more problems; the information is not as detailed and complete as the paper versions. I would advise to start with a paper version and when you tick all those off you can move to the digital versions to guide you to new challenges.
| Name | Web / app | Free / paid | Count of boulder problems described or crags | Review | Link |
| Bleau info | Web | Free | 272 crags | https://bleau.info/areas_by_region | |
| 27 crags | Web & App | Paid | 27951 boulder problems spread over 140 crags | https://27crags.com/areas/fontainebleau | |
| The crag | WebApp: Topoguru | Free | Over 29000 boulder problems | https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/france/fontainebleau https://www.topoguru.com/ | |
| Boolder | Web & App | Free | Over 15503 boulder problems over 70 crags | Great app, although there is not always a picture of all boulders, it’s helps you find your way to your project or through the circuit you chose. | https://www.boolder.com/en/app |
History
Although often referred to as Fontainebleau, the boulders extend over a much larger expanse. Fontainebleau serves as the name of the central town, with numerous boulders situated within the Fontainebleau boulder Forest. However, many areas also spill into surrounding forests and towns such as Milly la Forêt and Nemours.
Fontainebleau, often affectionately called “Font” by English speakers and “Bleau” (pronounced “blow”) by the French, has stood at the forefront of bouldering since the 1800s. It’s a place where climbing boundaries have been continuously pushed, pioneering the sport.
Before the first climbers were spotted here, the forest was the domain of hunting. Particularly by the kings of France. If you were caught hunting in this forest you could end up paying with your life. In the 19th century it became a place where the inhabitants of Paris would come to hike. Alongside them painters would fixate the forests in all its romantic forms. The two central painters were Theodore Rousseau and Jean-Francois Millet. Henri Dalmon said that its thanks to the painter Theodore Rousseau that the first part of the forest was protected in 1861. This was enlarged in 1892 and in 1904.
Around 1840 the train rails would arrive in Fontainebleau. This arrival would invite many pariesiennes to the forest for the weekends At the station carriages would wait for the tourists to drive them through these peaceful sceneries.
Le club Alpin
Le club alpin francais started in 1874 this was the future clan of rochassier of Jacques Wehrlin that later became the bleausards.
The first 4 years the club didn’t record their travels to fontainebleau. Probably because it was just for those who could not stand the heights of the real alps. In 1878 an international congres of the club alpin was mentioned. The attendees started their congress in Paris on the 6 and 7 September. It ended on the 10th. 200 of them travelled to Fontainebleau to have their lunch in the shadows if its trees. Later that day they visited the chateau.
We can assume that from that point on the club would exercise their climbing skills in the forest. Especially at la damme Jouanne where there are some higher boulders to be found. One of the first boulder problems that got named can be found there: Arete de L’archant. https://boulderinginfo.online/famous-boulder-problems/arete-de-larchant/
It’ s in 1900 at the celebration of the 25th year of the club that they mention to exercise the skills in Fontainebleau.
The first documented ascents trace back to 1908 and 1914, credited to climbers Fissure Wherlin, Cuvier, III+, and Prestat au Cuvier encore et l’arrête Larchant.
Le Group des Rochassiers
The Groupe des Rochassiers, founded evolved out of the Club Alpin was an informal group of young Parisian climbers. Training for bigger trips to the Alps, they took the train to the Fontainebleau forest, where they discovered that its sandstone boulders offered technical climbing challenges worthy of being a destination in themselves.
Important members included Jacques Wehrlin, Pierre Le Bec, André Jacquemart, and later Jacques de Lépiney. Wehrlin established the Fissure Wehrlin in 1908, while de Lépiney’s ascent of La Prestat in 1914 represented an important step in climbing difficulty. The Rochassiers’ played a game to find the most difficult way up a rock. Read more about the rochassier
They saw the forest as a training ground for expeditions to the real Alps. However, the experience gained in Fontainebleau could not fully prepare climbers for the dangers of alpine climbing. Jacques Wehrlin experienced this first-hand in 1913, five years after the Groupe des Rochassiers was founded. He witnessed a young Bleausard fall to his death, a tragic reminder of how enormous the step from Fontainebleau to the Alps could be. The dangers of Fontainebleau were real, and accidents and injuries were not uncommon. Yet the risks remained far lower than those faced in the Alps.
Bleausards
The groups des rochassiers evolved into the bleausards, this group dedicated more and more time fontainebleau in stead of using it as a training ground for alpinisme.
Pierre Allain was one of the most notable bleausards. He developped the modern climbing shoe. Thanks to this shoe new bouldering problems could be climbed as the boulder named after him: Angle Allain, The area is steeped in climbing history, marked by the release of the first climber’s guidebook by Maurice Martin in 1945 and the establishment of the inaugural circuits in 1946. As bouldering gained traction, Training for alpinisme was still a foundational reason to come to this place, one of the key features developped in that thought were the painted circuits. These circuits where ment to develop climbing endurance. Challenging climbers to do up to 40 boulder problems in a row.
Fontainebleau swiftly evolved into a proving ground for professionals and a cradle of climbing legends. Presently, climbers from around the globe come to test themselves against classic Fontainebleau boulder problems set up decades ago, as well as newer routes crafted by successive generations each year.
Namings of the crags would often evolve during the decenia. L’elefant was formerly known as the Grosse Molaire (big molar). Damme Jouanne was formerly known as Damme Jeanne.
Geological origine of the boulders of fontainebleau
The unique surface and structure of Fontainebleau sandstone boulders result from a geological process called desilicification, where silica is leached out of the rock, turning it into loose white sand. At the same time, some of this silica is re-deposited just behind the erosion front, re-cementing the grains and forming harder crusts. This process occurred rapidly during the Quaternary period (2.6 million years ago to present), a time marked by unstable sandy landscapes and fluctuating climates. It was originally thought that evaporation caused silica to redeposit, but recent research shows that cooling of groundwater, which lowers silica solubility, is the actual trigger. These long-term chemical and climatic interactions give the sandstone its varied texture and friction, making it both exceptionally grippy and uniquely sensitive for climbing.
Fontainebleau and the July 2026 wildfires
Between 12 July and 29 August 2026 2000 hectares of the forest of Fontainebleau was destroyed by wild fires. Most of the forest could be reopened to the public after extinguishing the fires. The fires started in Trois-Pignons on 12 July and on 13 July in the Faisanderie sector. It ended up burning about 10% of the forest.
Here a map of the closed areas: https://www.onf.fr/vivre-la-foret/enjeux-foret/feux-foret/+/2d9a::foret-de-fontainebleau-carte-des-sentiers-et-routes-forestieres-accessibles.html
Why does the forest remain closed?
Each tree needs to be inspected. The fires had a big impact on the forest. It did not only destroy the visible vegetation, but also burned its way to the roots of the trees. So even if a tree might seem stable and growing vegetation, some or all of its roots might have been destroyed by fires. This poses the problem that trees might fall at unexpected times, even if the burns only look superficial.
What and how long will the areas be closed?
Check the site https://bleau.info/ or the https://www.boolder.com/en/app to view what boulder crags are open. The local government has closed the damaged areas for at least the first of September 2027.
Sources
- ONF — Fontainebleau forest access map and closures — Primary source for the accessible and closed areas, downloadable maps, safety warnings and current access guidance.
- ONF — Update on the Fontainebleau forest fires — Documents the fires of 12–13 July 2026, the approximately 2,000 hectares affected and the reopening process.
- Seine-et-Marne authorities — 20,000 hectares accessible again — Official government information on the reopening and the continuing access restrictions.
- Samois-sur-Seine municipality — Temporary closure of burned sectors — Reproduces the closure period of 1 September 2026 through 1 September 2027 and explains the restrictions on designated roads, trails and forest parcels.
- Fontainebleau: 100 ans d’escalade — Gilles Modica and Jacky Godoffe (2017), first edition. A book documenting a century of climbing history in Fontainebleau.
- Boulder Font – A Little Guide to Bouldering in Fontainebleau — Practical information about climbing areas, guidebooks, access, accommodation, and responsible climbing.
- Boulder Font – Resources — Useful websites and resources for planning a Fontainebleau bouldering trip.
- A First Time to Bleau – Veggie Vagabonds — A first-hand guide to experiencing Fontainebleau, with practical advice for visiting climbers.
- Bouldering in Fontainebleau: Near Paris – Explore-Share — An introductory guide to the area and its appeal as a bouldering destination.
- Weathering Morphologies of the Fontainebleau Sandstone and Related Silica Mobility — Scientific research on the weathering of Fontainebleau sandstone and silica mobility, relevant to understanding the geological formation and characteristics of its boulders.