1984 – Cuvier Rempart – fontainebleau – by Jacky Godoffe – 8a/V11
The Boulder That Marked the Future of Fontainebleau
In the dense sandstone forest of Fontainebleau, where bouldering history stretches back over a century, certain lines transcend their physical form and become cultural milestones. Among these, C’était demain stands apart. Established in 1984 by Jacky Godoffe, this problem is widely recognized as the first 8A in Fontainebleau Cuvier Rempart—arguably the most influential bouldering area in the world.
More than just a climb, C’était demain represents a turning point: the moment when modern high-end bouldering truly began in Bleau. It is both a physical challenge and a symbolic leap into a new era of difficulty, style, and ambition.
Historical Context: Fontainebleau Before 1984
To understand the significance of C’était demain, one must first appreciate the unique ecosystem of Fontainebleau climbing. Since the late 19th century, the forest has served as a training ground for alpinists and, later, as the cradle of bouldering as its own discipline.
Early pioneers like Pierre Allain and René Ferlet established foundational problems and techniques, including the first recognized 6A (La Marie-Rose) in 1946. Over decades, standards gradually increased, driven by climbers such as Marc Le Ménestrel and Alain Ghersen.
Yet, despite this steady progression, the grading system in Fontainebleau was notoriously conservative. The idea of an “8th grade” problem—what would become 8A—was almost unthinkable. It required not only physical strength but also a conceptual leap: redefining what was possible on sandstone.
The First Ascent: Vision and Determination
In 1984, Jacky Godoffe set out with a clear ambition—to push Fontainebleau into this new grade. Inspired in part by Reinhold Messner’s book The Seventh Grade, Godoffe envisioned a future where bouldering would embrace higher standards of difficulty and athleticism.
After approximately six months of effort, he succeeded. On a compact, slightly overhanging face in the sector of Cuvier Rempart, he completed the first ascent of C’était demain, proposing the grade of 8A.
The name itself, taken from Looking Backward (translated into French as C’était demain, meaning “it was tomorrow”), was deliberately symbolic. Godoffe saw the climb as a bridge between eras—a movement from the established traditions of Bleau toward an unknown future.
The Boulder: Style and Movement
C’était demain is not defined by brute force alone. Like many Fontainebleau classics, it demands precision, body tension, and mastery of subtle movement.
The crux lies in the opening sequence. Climbers begin with high hands and must commit to a poor foothold, shifting into a delicate undercling position. The movement is both technical and psychological: insecure feet, marginal holds, and a requirement for exact body positioning.
This reflects a key characteristic of Bleau climbing—difficulty emerges not from large, obvious holds but from the interplay of friction, balance, and micro-features. Even today, many climbers find the problem disproportionately hard for its grade, especially those accustomed to more strength-oriented styles.
Unlike modern competition-style boulders, C’était demain offers no dynamic spectacle. Instead, it is quiet, controlled, and unforgiving. Each attempt requires careful calibration; small errors lead to immediate failure.
Confirmation and Legacy
At the time of its first ascent, the proposed 8A grade was controversial. Fontainebleau’s grading culture was conservative, and such a leap demanded validation.
This came through repeats by leading climbers of the era, including Marc Le Ménestrel and Alain Ghersen, who confirmed the difficulty. With their endorsement, C’était demain became firmly established as the benchmark for 8A.
From that moment, the floodgates opened. Climbers began exploring harder lines, and the upper limits of bouldering rapidly expanded. Today, problems exceed 9A, but C’était demain remains the origin point of that progression.
A Testpiece Through the Decades
Despite advances in training, equipment, and climbing knowledge, C’était demain has retained its reputation as a formidable challenge. Even elite climbers approach it with respect. See the youtube video with Anna Stohr and Jakob Schubert.
The Austrian climber Jakob Schubert, known for ascents far beyond 8A, found the problem demanding—highlighting its technical subtlety rather than raw difficulty.
This enduring challenge speaks to the timeless nature of Bleau climbing. Unlike some modern problems that rely on specific trends or styles, C’était demain is rooted in fundamental movement skills. It does not age; it remains relevant.
Moreover, it is relatively rarely repeated compared to other problems of similar grade, reinforcing its status as a “true” testpiece.
Cultural Significance in Bouldering
C’était demain occupies a unique place in climbing culture. It is not just the first 8A in Fontainebleau—it is one of the first 8A boulder problems ever established anywhere.
As such, it marks the beginning of modern high-grade bouldering. Before it, the discipline was still closely tied to mountaineering training. After it, bouldering began to emerge as a sport in its own right, with its own goals, standards, and identity.
The problem also reflects the ethos of Fontainebleau: minimalism, precision, and respect for natural features. There is no artificiality, no exaggerated movement—just climber and rock.
The Experience of Climbing It
For those who stand beneath C’était demain today, the experience is layered with history. The sandstone, worn smooth by decades of attempts, carries the marks of generations of climbers.
Approaching the problem, one is immediately struck by its subtlety. It does not look imposing in the way that steep, modern boulders do. Instead, it appears almost modest—until the climber tries to move.
This contrast is part of its allure. Fontainebleau often hides its difficulty, and C’était demain exemplifies this perfectly. The challenge is not obvious; it must be discovered through effort.
Climbing it is not just about sending an 8A. It is about engaging with a piece of history, repeating a line that defined an era.
Sources
Wikipedia
woguclimbing.com
PlanetMountain
Climbing History
The Crag