Training finger strength: dedicate time to your fingers to climb harder.

A 2026 survey of 745 recreational climbers illustrates why finger training needs to be approached carefully. Seventy-seven percent of participants reported at least one climbing-related injury, while fingers and hands were the most commonly affected areas. Joint pain or swelling and pulley injuries were among the most frequently reported problems. The study also found higher injury odds among climbers who reported using a fingerboard.
therefore I advise you to be careful, not only on the wall but also starting with finger training and handboarding.

Training crimping / finger strength

Finger strength is a cornerstone of climbing performance, particularly for boulderers and sport climbers tackling difficult routes. Developing strong fingers allows you to grip smaller holds, exert more force, and reduce the risk of overuse injuries.

1. Start Slow and Build Up Gradually

Don’t rush into intense hangboard sessions with added weights for extended periods. Instead, focus on a gradual increase over weeks and months. This progression allows your fingers to adapt to the unique demands of climbing, minimizing injury risk.

2. Warm Up Thoroughly

Take time to warm up properly before climbing or training finger strength. A good warm-up can significantly reduce your chances of injuries, particularly in the fingers and hands.

3. Listen to Your Body (and Your Fingers)

If you feel anything unusual—such as a pop or persistent ache—take a break. Step away from the wall for about 30 minutes and assess. If everything feels alright after a rest, resume slowly. Pushing through discomfort in your fingers can lead to serious injuries, so be mindful.

4. Take care of your fingers

If your fingers hurt while or after climbing, than make sure you identify if this is a finger injury. If you continue climbing this might increase the injury and it will take longer to recover. The book Climb injury free from Jared Vagy will help you in a step by step program to recover from finger injuries.

5. Scientifically Backed Training Program

The following is the program that Eva Lopez has researched, another option is the program that Emil Abrahamsson has developed.
Eva’s program is an 8-week cycle: 4 weeks of MAW (Maximal Added Weight) followed by 4 weeks of MED (Minimal Edge Depth).

MAW (Maximal Added Weight): Twice a week, complete 5–6 reps of 10-second hangs with added weight. Rest for 3 minutes between each rep.
MED (Minimal Edge Depth): Twice a week, hang from the smallest edge you can hold for 10 seconds without added weight. Complete 4–5 reps, resting for 3 minutes between each.

This approach is backed by research from Eva López Rivera, and results show it’s an effective way to build strength safely.

Use the Crimpd App for Guidance

For tracking reps, setting timers, and following structured programs, the Crimpd app offers both of the above training methods for free. It’s a helpful tool to stay consistent and precise with your training.

Want to level up?

Read the article describing the no hangs protocol of Emil.

Sources

den Hengst, S., Powis, E., Cooper, C., Diamond, S., & Tuaño, K. R. (2026). Finger, hand and wrist injuries in climbers: insights from climber and provider surveys.BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine, 12(2), e003239. Read the study

López-Rivera, E. (2021). Finger Strength Training for Climbing: A Basic Guide to Hangboarding.Sportphysio, 9(4), 183–188. Read the article

Warm Up Your Fingers to Prevent Finger Injury. YouTube. Watch the video

Mercedes Pollmeier on Beginners Fingerboarding. YouTube Shorts. Watch the video