Training crimping / finger strength
Finger strength is a cornerstone of climbing performance, particularly for boulderers and sport climbers tackling difficult routes. Developing strong fingers allows you to grip smaller holds, exert more force, and reduce the risk of overuse injuries.
1. Start Slow and Build Up Gradually
Don’t rush into intense hangboard sessions with added weights for extended periods. Instead, focus on a gradual increase over weeks and months. This progression allows your fingers to adapt to the unique demands of climbing, minimizing injury risk.
2. Warm Up Thoroughly
Take time to warm up properly before climbing or training finger strength. A good warm-up can significantly reduce your chances of injuries, particularly in the fingers and hands.
3. Listen to Your Body (and Your Fingers)
If you feel anything unusual—such as a pop or persistent ache—take a break. Step away from the wall for about 30 minutes and assess. If everything feels alright after a rest, resume slowly. Pushing through discomfort in your fingers can lead to serious injuries, so be mindful.
4. Take care of your fingers
If your fingers hurt while or after climbing, than make sure you identify if this is a finger injury. If you continue climbing this might increase the injury and it will take longer to recover. The book Climb injury free from Jared Vagy will help you in a step by step program to recover from finger injuries.
5. Scientifically Backed Training Program
The following is the program that Eva Lopez has researched, another option is the program that Emil Abrahamsson has developed.
Eva’s program is an 8-week cycle: 4 weeks of MAW (Maximal Added Weight) followed by 4 weeks of MED (Minimal Edge Depth).
- MAW (Maximal Added Weight): Twice a week, complete 5–6 reps of 10-second hangs with added weight. Rest for 3 minutes between each rep.
- MED (Minimal Edge Depth): Twice a week, hang from the smallest edge you can hold for 10 seconds without added weight. Complete 4–5 reps, resting for 3 minutes between each.
This approach is backed by research from Eva López Rivera, and results show it’s an effective way to build strength safely.
Use the Crimpd App for Guidance
For tracking reps, setting timers, and following structured programs, the Crimpd app offers both of the above training methods for free. It’s a helpful tool to stay consistent and precise with your training.
Further Reading: The Climbing Bible and Beastmaker
To dive deeper into the science and find more exercises, check out The Climbing Bible and Beastmaker. These guides, authored by experienced climbers like Ned Feehally, Martin Mobråten, and Stian Christophersen, offer valuable insights and tips for developing finger strength safely and effectively.
Sources
Eva Lopez-rivera, Finger strength training for climbing: a basic guide to hangboarding