What Is the Figure Four Move?
The figure-four is an climbing technique primarily utilized in ice and mixed climbing disciplines. It involves hooking one leg over the opposite arm to gain additional height, especially on overhanging or steep terrain where footholds are scarce.
While the figure-four is more prevalent in ice and mixed climbing, it can occasionally be applied in bouldering, particularly on overhanging problems where traditional footholds are lacking. However, its use in bouldering is less common due to the typically shorter and more dynamic nature of boulder problems.
Execution of the Figure-Four:
- Positioning: While hanging on a handhold, lift one leg and hook it over the arm that holds the hold.
- Reaching: Engage your core you can now extend your free hand to reach for higher holds or placements.
Why the Figure Four Is Useful in Bouldering
While uncommon in traditional bouldering, a figure four can be an effective static movement when:
- You’re on a steep overhang with sparse footholds, and dynamic moves are difficult.
- You need to increase your upward reach without jumping or dynoing.
- You want to conserve energy on long reaches instead of performing high-effort dynamic moves.
In essence, the figure four lets you use your leg as a powerful lever, transferring force through your arm to maintain body tension and control.
Training, practice & warning
Trying the figure-four move for the first time can be challenging, and some climbers may even find themselves stuck mid-move. Therefore, it’s important to practice this technique in a safe environment and at a low height to minimize risk. Repeatedly practicing the move on a climbing wall or during dry-tooling sessions is an excellent way to develop the necessary muscle memory, strength, and confidence for executing it effectively.
When Not to Use a Figure Four
Although beneficial in niche situations, it is not always the best option in bouldering:
- If a dynamic move (dyno) is easier and safer.
- When a foot or heel hook provides equal leverage without complexity.
- In problems where the intended beta does not require a static reach.
In climbing gyms and outdoor bouldering, many climbers find the figure four over-specialized or unnecessary for most problems.
Three figure-four positions
The most common variation of the figure-four move involves hooking the back of your knee (knee pit) over your elbow. To gain additional height, you can place your knee higher up your arm and squeeze your forearm, allowing you to achieve a more elevated position. For maximum reach, you can hook your knee even higher, near the base of your wrist, effectively executing a high figure-four.
Sources
Hard Climbs
Ascentionism
Uphill Athlete
Typhoonbladefist – no foot holds? no problem