Bouldering training

The following articles summarize my online research and personal experiences. I will reference the YouTube videos and other articles I consulted. I want to clarify that I am not an expert; rather, I am an enthusiast who enjoys exploring information (about bouldering training) and sharing knowledge. If you have any insights to add let me know.

Topics you might be interested in:

• Becoming a better climber takes time
• Bouldering Training apps
  • Boulder Roulette: gamification of bouldering training
• Bouldering training sessions
  • Beginner bouldering training session by lattice training
  • Bouldering Progression: How to Train from V3/6a to V13/8b in 3 Years
  • Bouldering training for all levels by Emil Abrahamsson
  • Bouldering training session by Adam Ondra
• Boulding training plans
  • Bouldering training plan by Lattice
  • Catalyst climbing training
  • Lattice training bouldering plan
• Climbing while aging: insights from Steve McClure
• Just climb the first three years
• No hangs finger strength training
• Training finger strength
• Training Focus and Flow in Bouldering
• Youth bouldering injuries: Full Crimping, Campus Boards, and Weighted Pull-Ups Ruin a Young Boulderer

At the very start: becoming better

My goal was to improve my bouldering skills while having fun and climbing with friends. When I first began, I looked up to the boulderers around me who were tackling 6c and 7a problems. I often asked them how they reached that level, and the most common advice I received was to boulder three times a week. So, I committed to that routine and eventually climbed my first 7a after three years. However, this progress came with a downside: I frequently injured myself, mainly with finger injuries. I found myself stuck, experiencing peaks in my climbing ability but sidelined by injuries for much of the time.

One rule that I did find out: it takes time and dedication to become a better climber

Improving your bouldering by bouldering training demands time, patience, and consistent dedication. Climbers like Ned Feehally often emphasize that real progress isn’t about quick wins but about embracing the process. Whether refining technique, building strength, or working on mental resilience, each aspect takes sustained effort. Setbacks are common, but with perseverance, every small gain builds toward larger achievements. Just as on the wall, progress may be slow and challenging, but the rewards come from the journey itself and the growth that unfolds with each attempt.

One bouldering training to rule them all?

Determined to find a solution, I delved deeper into the topic and discovered that there is no single answer. Many climbers have their own unique paths to success, shaped by diverse experiences and training methods. Each boulderer has pieced together their own puzzle, leading them to the heights we all admire. One video that inspired me to find my way to become better mentioned that even if your hero of climbing does or does not do something it means that this will work for you.

Training finger strength

Science has so far shown two ways to train your finger strength. First is by the method of Eva Lopez-Rivera second is the no hang version of Emil Abrahamsson.

History of finger training

John Gill was the first climber to promote specific strength training for climbing, drawing on his gymnastics background. He used exercises such as pull-ups, rope climbs, and grip-strength drills to develop the power needed for difficult moves on small holds. This pioneering approach helped establish the foundations of modern finger-strength and hangboard training, which remain central to bouldering today.

Some of the things I try to apply in my training.  

• Do not just climb three times a week
• Learn from the pros, lattice, catalyst, emil and many others.
• Do not only climb, make sure to train and condition your body slowly to this new sport. Specially for older climbers like myself, we need to find the right balance and exercises to increase your climbing level. Source: Tom Ranall, Lattice training: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74fSSco7wTU
• Build up slowly, in strength as in volume of climbing,
• Diversify, do not only project, introduce volume training and where needed strength and flexibility
• Warm up, it will prevent injuries, specially for fingers. I use the hangboard training from Emil Abrahamsson https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBTI9qiH4UE
• Have fun, find or create the fun in training, even if you have a sad back due to injuries
• Take enough rest, day(s) between training sessions and an offload week after intensifying your training for a few weeks
• Dedication and consistency are the fundamentals, it’s a marathon not a sprint
• You dont have to be strong, tall, small, light to climb hard routes. Everybody can reach to top with enough dedication. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D4jdP43M3A 
• I try to keep track of my progress via apps