1950 – Cuvier – Fontainebleau – by Paul Jouy – 6b/V4
Introduction
In the annals of bouldering, only a few problems carry as much historical significance as La Stalingrad at Cuvier, in the Forêt de Fontainebleau (often referred to simply as Bleau). Graded 6b (Fontainebleau) and first ascended in 1950 by Paul Jouy, this boulder stands as a landmark in the evolution of difficulty in one of the world’s oldest and most influential bouldering areas.
The Birth of Modern Bouldering Difficulty
Bouldering at Fontainebleau traces its roots to the early 20th century, evolving from informal practice for alpinists into a distinct discipline within climbing. Before La Stalingrad, climbers had opened routes up to 6a, with La Marie Rose (1946) often cited as the first historic benchmark at that level. Paul Jouy’s ascent of La Stalingrad marked the first time a problem in the forest was successfully climbed at the 6b grade, setting a new standard for climbers of the era.
Paul Jouy: The First Ascensionist
Paul Jouy was part of the early generation of “bleausards,” climbers devoted to exploring the sandstone outcrops of Fontainebleau. In 1950, he completed the first recorded ascent of La Stalingrad on the Cuvier’s slabs — a route that challenged the technical and mental limits of its time. Jouy’s contributions in that year also included the first ascent of Le Carré d’As (6c), further underscoring his role in pushing the difficulty envelope at Bleau.
The Boulder: Location and Character
La Stalingrad is located in the Cuvier area, a legendary cluster of sandstone blocks that has drawn climbers from across Europe for decades. The problem is right next to La Prestat, the first boulder graded 3+ in 1914. It ascends a slab feature — typical of Bleau’s sandstone — requiring balance, precise footwork, and confidence on friction. It has remained a respected and enduring challenge for generations of climbers, both local and international.
Legacy and Influence
The ascent of La Stalingrad did more than establish a new grade; it contributed to the codification and progression of bouldering grades at Fontainebleau. As climbing culture evolved, problems like La Stalingrad became benchmarks against which future lines could be compared. Climbers today still reference historical ascents like Jouy’s to appreciate how technical standards have shifted over time.
Breaking the Sixth Grade Barrier
Established in 1950 on the historic Prestat boulder by Michel Duplay (an enigmatic figure in Bleau history), La Stalingrad holds monumental status as the forest’s very first 6b problem. It was also the first boulder to utilize Pierre Alain’s newly proposed letter system (6a, 6b, 6c). Located directly adjacent to Jacques de Lépiney’s iconic 1914 line La Prestat, La Stalingrad represented a direct bridge between early 20th-century slab technique and the modern era of hard bouldering.
Sources
Climbing Away
Centre Fédéral de Documentation
The Crag
Wikipedia
https://ukbouldering.fandom.com/wiki/World_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade
https://bleau.info/cuvier/2005.html