The bleausards are a group of mountaineer climbers training their skills during winter in Fontainebleau were not just enthusiasts; they were pioneers who profoundly influenced the climbing world. Led by Pierre Allain, they transformed Fontainebleau into a bouldering mecca, emphasizing mastery of movement and technique.
First boulder ever: La Fissure Wehrlin
The story begins in earnest around 1908. While European mountaineers were busy conquering the great North Faces, a group of Parisian climbers recognized that the complex, friction-dependent sandstone of Fontainebleau offered the perfect laboratory for technical mastery. Jacques Wehrlin, a key figure of the early Groupe Rochassier, established the “Wehrlin Crack” in 1908, a problem that remains a classic test of technique. These early pioneers viewed the forest not as a playground, but as a “university of rock.”
Two way trip from Paris
Following World War I, the Bleausard culture intensified. In 1924, the Groupe de Bleau (GDB) was formed. For these climbers, bouldering was a primary discipline. They weren’t just “practicing” for the Alps; they were pushing the absolute limits of what could be climbed without the aid of ropes or pitons.
Commuting by train from Paris, the Bleausards made the forest their training ground. They honed their skills on the boulders year-round.
The most influential figure of this era was Pierre Allain. A visionary climber and inventor, Allain realized that the heavy, nailed boots used in the mountains were useless on the smooth, sloping holds of Fontainebleau. In the 1930s, he developed the first soft, rubber-soled climbing shoe—the ancestor of every modern climbing shoe in the world today. This invention allowed Bleausards to stand on “micro-edges” and utilize “slopers” (rounded holds) that were previously thought impossible. For Allain, Fontainebleau served not merely as a playground but as a laboratory. Here, he experimented with new techniques and equipment, preparing for alpine expeditions in Chamonix.
The bleausards unlocked new skills
Rather than viewing boulders as simple training tools, they recognized them as opportunities for exploration and mastery. By tirelessly repeating moves and perfecting body positions, they unlocked the secrets of movement on the rock. In doing so, they set new standards for bouldering excellence.
Their legacy endures in modern climbing culture. From their innovative use of espadrilles and PA’s to their pioneering approach, the Bleausards pushed the boundaries of what was possible on the rock. Consequently, their influence resonates in every corner of Fontainebleau, from the iconic circuits to legendary routes like Big Boss and La Marie Rose.
The Invention of the Circuit
Post-World War II, the forest saw a revolution in how climbing was organized. In 1947, Fred Bernick painted the first “circuit” at Cuvier Rempart. A circuit is a series of numbered problems of similar difficulty, designed to be climbed in succession to simulate the physical toll and endurance required for a long alpine route.
This system of color-coded arrows (Yellow for easy, Orange for intermediate, Blue for difficult, and Red/Black for elite) transformed the forest into a structured training ground. It allowed a Bleausard to move through the woods for hours, honing the “flow” that has become the hallmark of the Fontainebleau style.
Technical Mastery and the “Bleau” Style
What distinguishes a Bleausard from a modern gym climber is an obsession with “finesse” over “force.” Because sandstone is highly sensitive to humidity and temperature, Bleausards developed a deep understanding of “friction” (the grain). They learned that a climb might be impossible at 2:00 PM but effortless at dusk when the temperature drops.
The Legacy
Today, being a Bleausard is more than just climbing at Fontainebleau; it is a commitment to a century-old tradition. It is the recognition that a three-meter boulder can be just as challenging and spiritually rewarding as a thousand-meter face. As the forest continues to evolve—with new problems being found and old ones becoming “polished” by time—the spirit of the Bleausards remains: a blend of Parisian bohemianism, athletic excellence, and a profound respect for the silent, ancient stones of the forest.
The Modern Era: From 8a to Global Mecca
In the 1980s, the difficulty reached new heights. In 1984, Jacky Godoffe climbed C’était Demain, the forest’s first 8a (V11). This era marked the transition of Fontainebleau from a secret Parisian training ground to a global destination.
Despite the influx of thousands of international climbers, the “Old Guard” of Bleausards maintains a strict ethic. They are the silent protectors of the forest, often seen with a small carpet (the paillasson) to clean their shoes before stepping on the rock—a crucial practice to prevent the sand from eroding the delicate holds. They eschew the “ego” of the grade, focusing instead on the purity of the movement.
Key Milestones in Bleausard History:
- 1908: Jacques Wehrlin climbs La Fissure Wehrlin.
- 1924: Formation of the Groupe de Bleau.
- 1935: Pierre Allain introduces the “PA” rubber-soled shoe.
- 1947: Fred Bernick creates the first painted circuit.
- 1984: Jacky Godoffe opens the 8a barrier.
- Current: Fontainebleau stands as the world’s largest bouldering area with over 30,000 documented problems.
Sources
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fontainebleau_rock_climbing
https://www.youtube.com: movie about the first boulder of fontainebleau
https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blogs/stories/learning-to-become-a-bleausard