Hueco Tanks 

Texas, desert of Chihuahuan, where water is scars, lies the bouldering crag Hueco Tanks. Hueco is another name for water tanks for which this region is famous for. Hueco mountains is composed of syenite porphyry, a weak form of granite. These rock features make excellent boulder problems. 

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We can track back the human presence to these Hueco Tanks mountains to 10 000 years ago. The natural pockets of water were attracting wildlife and people traveling through these regions. Pictographs are proof of the long-lived presence of humans here. Estimated these were created between 6000 and 450 A.D. Between 3000 B.A. and 450 A.D. the pictures of humans and animals were drawn. 

a boulder at hueco tanks

Climbing at Hueco Tanks

In de 1950 students from the Texas Western COllege (UTEP as of 1967) started climbing. The Kliff climbers were the first recorded club that climbed the Hueca Tanks. Aware of the historic significance of the pictograms they posted signs in 1956 to protect them. Royal Robbins was climbing among these students, establishing some of the first roped climbs.

Bob Murray and Mike Head were the first boulderers that did not use the Hueco Tanks boulders as training material for higher test pieces. Left El Murray and Center El Murray both V6/ 7a are climbs that remain of those days. 

The V-scale and John Sherman

The Vermin, John Sherman started climbing here in the 80ies. He established hundreds of problems here. In 1991 he published his guide to this bouldering crag. In this guide he introduced the V-scale. This scale helped climbers to communicate the difficulty of a boulder problem. 

The often overhanging climbs of Hueco Tanks provided a safety challenge. This is when Sherman created the first version of the crashpad. Now this safety device is commonly used by most outdoor boulderers.

Raising the bar in Hueco Tanks by Fred Nicole

The swiss climber established in the mid to late 90ies many firsts. He send the first 8B/ V13 in 1995, first 8B+/ V14 in 1997 and a 8C/ V15 in 2005. At that time these were among the hardest boulders in the world.  

Popularity killed the buzz

In 1998 the popularity of Hueco Tanks Parks boulders created serious problems. More and more of the environment, archaeological sites and vegetation showed the wear of the frequent visits. 

First of September 1998 visits were limited. Some areas are only accessible by guided tours.

Bouldering is also limited, based on the rain or snow fall climbers are not allowed to ascend boulders.  

Some examples of the problems at Hueco Tanks

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