Going from V3 (6A) to V13 (8B+) in just three years sounds nearly impossible, but it is achievable with radical consistency and hyper-focused training. In a deep-dive interview by filmmaker Hannah Morris, elite UK climbers Mat Wright and Anna Taylor break down exactly how Mat managed this explosive trajectory.
Instead of relying solely on raw finger power, Mat’s rapid progression came down to mastering movement mechanics, psychological commitment, and targeted physical conditioning.
The v3 to v13 in three years training Framework
| Focus Area | Core Exercise / Technique | Primary Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Technique & Control | Three Points of Contact (Hover Drills) | Body tension, center of gravity awareness |
| Mindset | Controlled Exposure & Worst-Case Rationalization | Overcoming fear of falling, total commitment |
| Movement Efficiency | Visualization & Perfect-Repeat Drills | Reducing energy expenditure, muscle memory |
| Physical Foundation | Consistent Hangboarding & Shoulder Engagement | Building injury-resistant contact strength |
1. Technical Precision: The “Three Points of Contact” Drill
To climb high grades, your footwork and body tension must become subconscious. Mat introduces a foundational static movement exercise called the Three Points of Contact drill (often called hover drills).
- How to do it: Choose a boulder problem, ideally on an overhang. Before moving your hand or foot to the next target hold, hover it directly over the hold for 2 to 3 seconds before making contact.
- Why it builds technique: This forces you to rely on absolute body tension and straight-arm techniques rather than dynamic momentum. It teaches you exactly where your center of gravity lies on steep terrain.
2. Psychological Mastery: Building Commitment and Confidence
Fear is often the silent ceiling that keeps climbers stuck at intermediate grades. Anna Taylor points out that breaking into advanced grades requires moving past hesitation.
- Lowering the Risk: Practice high-commitment, low-percentage moves close to the ground first to build muscle confidence.
- Rationalizing the Fall: When high on a wall, ask yourself: “What is the absolute worst that can happen?” In a modern indoor gym environment, the answer is almost always a clean fall onto a highly engineered foam mat. Acknowledging this reality breaks mental paralysis.
3. Movement Efficiency: Visualization and “Perfect Repeats”
Climbing V13 isn’t just about being strong; it is about wasting zero energy. You can optimize your efficiency by training your mental map of a route.
- Pre-Climb Visualization: Before pulling onto the wall, close your eyes and visualize every single hand shift, foot placement, and hip twist.
- The Perfect Repeat Method: Once you send a difficult boulder problem, do not just walk away. Climb it again, and again. Aim to trim away unnecessary adjustments, dynamic slips, or over-gripping until the climb feels fluid and effortless.
4. Attacking Your “Nemesis Style” and Weaknesses
The fastest way to plateau is to only climb what you are already good at. True progression lies in hunting down your weaknesses.
- If you are a powerhouse on steep overhangs but crumble on vertical walls, your fast track to progress is spending months training your foot security and hip flexibility on delicate slabs.
- Shift your mindset: viewing a failed attempt on your “nemesis style” as a data point rather than a frustration is what separates V13 climbers from the rest.
5. Structural Strength: Targeted Finger and Shoulder Conditioning
While movement is king, you eventually need the raw physical capacity to hold onto tiny rock features. Mat recommends a minimalist, highly structured approach to off-wall conditioning to avoid overtraining.
- Fingers (Once a Week): Introduce a structured hangboard protocol. Focus on high-intensity, low-volume dead hangs on a 20mm edge to stimulate tendon adaptation.
- Shoulder Stability: Elite bouldering requires active, engaged shoulders. Train this by performing active hangs on a bar or rings—scapular pulls, lock-offs, and compression exercises—to ensure your shoulders can handle dynamic load transfers.
Key Takeaway: You do not need a 10-hour daily training plan to reach V13/8b. By combining strict body control, deliberate visualization, and targeted strength work once a week, you build a sustainable foundation for rapid climbing progression.
Watch the Original Interview
For a visual breakdown of Mat Wright’s form and his full discussion with Hannah Morris and Anna Taylor, check out the original video v3 to v13 in three years