Emil Abrahamsson (born in 1996) is a Swedish climber and YouTuber, known for his bouldering skills and training methods. Born on August 3, 1996, he has made significant strides in the climbing community, working on challenging boulders graded up to 8C (V15). He has been active in the swedish and european IFSC bouldering and lead climbing competitions.
Biography and Climbing Career
Before committing fully to outdoor projects and digital storytelling, Emil Abrahamsson spent years on the highly demanding International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) circuit. Active on the international stage between 2020 and 2023, Emil represented Sweden across both the Boulder and Lead disciplines. His competition career saw him squaring multiple World Cups in Meiringen, Switzerland and Innsbruck, Austria, as well as the 2022 European Continental Championships in Munich.
| Full Name | Emil Adrahamsson |
| Date of Birth | August 3 1996 |
| Nationality | Swedish |
| Height | 183cm – 6 feet |
| Weight | 77.6 kg / 170 lbs |
| Hardest Boulder | The story of two worlds (8c/ V15) |
| Known for | Popular youtube channel, No hang finger protocol, grip strenght records |
The “No-Hang” Protocol: Emil’s Finger Strength Routine
Daily two (low intencity) hangboard sessions
Abrahamsson gained notable attention for his innovative training technique, particularly his “No Hang Protocol,” which focuses on developing finger strength without traditional hanging from a hangboard. This approach garnered significant interest after he showcased remarkable performance improvements through this method in just 30 days. This session is easy to reproduce thanks to the crimp app. They have shown that this could contribute to a big increase in finger strength.
Social media
His YouTube channel, which has over 200,000 subscribers, features a variety of content including training tips, personal climbing experiences, and the emotional journey of tackling difficult climbs.
In addition to his training, he has competed on the World Cup circuit and is recognized for his powerful climbing style, especially on steep compression problems and dynamic moves. One of his notable achievements includes the ascent of the boulder problem “The Story of Two Worlds,” a highly regarded test piece in the climbing community.
Abrahamsson’s contributions extend beyond climbing as he actively engages with the community through social media and podcasts, sharing insights on training, nutrition, and mental preparation. For more detailed insights, you can check out his appearances on podcasts like The Struggle Climbing Show and articles covering his training methods..
Bouldering training advice
Emil did three videos about how to become a better boulderer.
– Beginner up to V5
– Intermediate V5 to V7
– Expert V7 to V15
Notable Outdoor Boulder Ascents
The Story of Two Worlds (V15/8C): Located in Cresciano, Switzerland, this problem was first ascended by Dave Graham in 2005. Emil dedicated four years of training before successfully completing it in January 2023.
Power of Now (V14/8B+): In September 2022, Emil sent this challenging boulder, further showcasing his climbing prowess.
Off the wagon (V14/8B+): Attempted not ascent it see youtube video.
Crossover to Grip Strength & Strongman Competitions
A crossover from climbing to powerlifting, Emil began testing his finger power in the niche world of professional grip strength competitions. Weighing in at a lean 77.6 kg (approx. 170 lbs), Emil consistently enters these events as a massive underdog, often standing side-by-side with 300-plus-pound strongmen who lift weights full-time. Despite the massive bodyweight disadvantage, his specialized climbing tendons have allowed him to effortlessly handle heavy implements like the Saxon bar and secure top-tier placements against the world’s heaviest lifters.
His dedication to the sport culminated in historic performances on the competitive stage. At the Immortals – Winter Grip Wars III in Molkom, Sweden, Emil shocked the field by placing 12th overall out of a sea of heavyweight athletes. During the grueling multi-stage event, he set a sensational world record for his weight category in the notorious “Blob Medley” by successfully picking up a 50-pound block weight (the “Blob”)—a feat of pure pinch-grip strength that rarely yields to anyone outside the heavyweight classes. This crossover success has firmly established Emil as one of the pound-for-pound strongest individuals on the planet, bridging the gap between rock climbing and raw strength athletics.
This video captures one of his early crossover attempts, showcasing a professional rock climber breaking a grip strength world record against heavy strongmen: Pro Climber Breaks Grip Strength World Record.
Social Media Presence:
- YouTube: Emil Abrahamsson
Sources
https://www.youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson
Video no Hang Protocol
https://www.instagram.com/emil_abrahamsson_/?hl=en
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=12230
https://www.lacrux.com/en/videos/two-years-twice-a-day-on-the-hangboard-what%27s-the-point/
https://climbing-history.org/climber/1300/emil-abrahamsson
https://latticetraining.com/blog/emil-abrahamsson/
https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/emil-abrahamsson
climbing history: emils boulder problems
https://www.8a.nu/news/emil-abrahamsson-20-from-overweight-to-almost-worldclass-in-five-years