Climber, Pioneer, Leader — The Life Behind La Joker
Robert Paragot (1927–2019) Repairing typing machines to make a living. Is celebrated for his pioneering far-reaching impact on mountaineering and climbing organizations in France and internationally. Born in Bullion in the Yvelines region of France, Paragot began climbing during his youth in the post-World War II era, where he developed foundational skills on the sandstone boulders of the Fontainebleau forest.
Introduction to fontainebleau
Paragot’s introduction to Fontainebleau’s sandstone came through weekend sessions with fellow young climbers which helped cultivate a passionate community of explorers and future mountaineers.
La Joker
In 1953, Paragot completed La Joker in Bas Cuvier, employing early techniques and grading conventions that later became cornerstones of modern bouldering standards. At the time, the climb was noted informally at around 6f/VI h, but following systematic grading reforms within Fontainebleau, it is now regarded as 7a — making it the first of that difficulty in the forest.
Alpinisme
Paragot’s climbing pursuits were not limited to sandstone bouldering. In the 1950s and 1960s, he expanded into alpine and high-altitude climbing, achieving significant first ascents. Notable accomplishments include the north face of the Grand Capucin, the south face of Aconcagua (approximately 6962 m), and the ascent of Jannu (7710 m) in the Himalaya.
Leader
Beyond his personal climbing achievements, Paragot was a leader in climbing organizations. He served as President of the Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM) from 1965 to 1975 and later as President of the Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l’Escalade (FFME), influencing climbing policy and community organization for decades.
In recognition of his lifetime contributions to alpinism and climbing, Paragot was awarded the Piolet d’Or Carrière in 2012, joining a select group of elite mountaineers acknowledged for their career achievements.
Death
Paragot died on 24 October 2019 at the age of 92, leaving a legacy that spans classic boulder firsts, legendary mountaineering expeditions, and organizational leadership that shaped the development of climbing in France and beyond.
Sources
Wikipedia
Piolets d’Or
FFME
Climbing Away
climbing-history.org
Piolets d’Or