A Bleausard, Pierre Allain early pioneer of climbing in the renowned Fontainebleau forest, an area near Paris famous for its bouldering. Known for his technical prowess and innovative mindset, Allain contributed significantly to the development of climbing as a sport.
Historic Ascents and Climbing Contributions
Allain’s approach to climbing sought mastery of movement and technique rather than simply reaching heights. Among his most enduring achievements L’Angle Allain – First ascended by Allain in the 1930s, this classic Fontainebleau problem remains a benchmark in the forest to this day.
Life
Birth and Origin:
Pierre Jean Allain was born on 7 January 1904 in Mirebeau (Vienne), France. He later moved with his family to Paris, where he grew up and was raised in a modest household.
Early Work and Training:
Before becoming a full-time climber and mountaineer, Allain worked in Paris as an apprentice mechanic, and over time held jobs including electrician, garment maker, and commercial worker.
Introduction to Mountain Climbing:
His love of mountains began in the 1920s on vacation in the Alps, particularly near Allevard in the Isère region, where he climbed long but relatively easy mountaineering routes as a novice.
Fontainebleau and the Bleausards
In 1930, an alpine friend, Robert Latour, introduced him to rock climbing at Fontainebleau and Chamarande near Paris. This led to his involvement with the Groupe de Bleau (Bleausards)—a formative climbing collective in early bouldering history.
World War II and Later Life
World War II Service:
During WWII, Allain was mobilized in Lorraine before being reassigned in Paris. He later worked on the Mediterranean-Niger railway construction in Algeria before returning to France.
Liberation Efforts:
In 1944, he participated in liberating the upper Arve Valley from German occupation, narrowly escaping injury at the Col de la Seigne.
Move to the Alps:
In 1963, he relocated from Paris to Uriage in the Dauphiné Alps, where he focused on his workshop producing light climbing gear and caving ladders.
Climbing at Age 80:
At 80 years old, he climbed the Boell Route on La Dibona with his son Paul—a testament to lifelong fitness and climbing skill.
Death:
Pierre Allain passed away on 19 December 2000 in Saint-Martin-d’Uriage (Isère, France).
Innovations
Born in Paris in 1904, Allain became a revolutionary figure not only because of his climbing achievements but also for the innovative equipment he introduced to the climbing world.
Climbing shoes
In 1930, he designed the first modern climbing shoe, which Pierre Allain named after his initials: “PAs.” These shoes were produced in collaboration with shoemaker Édouard Bourdeneau and became a mainstay in the climbing community throughout the 1960s and 1970s. Unlike the stiff-soled boots previously used, Allain’s shoes were more flexible and featured rubber soles, providing greater sensitivity and grip, especially useful in bouldering.
Lightweight Aluminum Carabiners
Pierre Allain’s creativity extended beyond shoes. He also invented the lightweight aluminum carabiner, which replaced the heavier steel versions used at the time. This innovation significantly improved the safety and efficiency of climbing gear.
Other Gear Contributions
His contributions to mountaineering also include the development of the abseil device, which is crucial for safe descent, and the down jacket and cagoule (a lightweight, weatherproof hooded garment). While these inventions had more influence on mountaineers than boulderers, they reflect his broader impact on the climbing world.
Allain’s innovations helped shift climbing equipment away from heavy, multipurpose designs toward specialized tools optimized for performance.
Writings
In addition to his gear innovations, Allain also contributed intellectually to the sport. He authored the book Alpinisme et Competition, where he discussed his climbing philosophy and ideas on mountaineering. The book remains a valuable resource for understanding the mindset and techniques of early 20th-century climbers.
Legacy in Climbing and Bouldering History
Pierre Allain’s dual legacy—both as a pioneer of technical bouldering and as an equipment innovator—positions him as a foundational figure in climbing history. Today’s climbers benefit directly from his emphasis on friction, movement, gear design, and the cultural elevation of bouldering.
Fun fact
Pierre Allain climbed the eiffel tour in 1947. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfOb12p8eIY
Sources about Pierre Allain early pioneer of climbing:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Allain
https://www.outdoorgearcoach.co.uk/innovation-history/pierre-allain-innovator-extraordinaire/
https://www.imdb.com/name/nm7491097/bio/
http://www.beijadventures.com/en/podcast/alpinography/pierre-allain-or-the-climbing-revolution/