In climbing and bouldering, pockets are holds characterized by holes or depressions in the rock or climbing wall, allowing climbers to insert one or more fingers to grip. The size and depth of these pockets vary, accommodating different numbers of fingers.
While they are among the most aesthetically pleasing holds to climb, they are also the most demanding on your tendons. Understanding the mechanics of how to use them—and how to protect your hands—is essential for any progressing climber.
Types of Pockets
The difficulty of a pocket is usually defined by how many fingers it accommodates:
- Mono Pockets: Designed for a single finger (usually the middle finger). These require elite finger strength and extreme caution.
- Two-Finger Pockets: The most common variety. These are typically gripped using the middle and ring fingers.
- Three-Finger / Four-Finger Pockets: These feel more like “jugs” but still require specific stacking to avoid finger crowding.
Mono pockets, or monos, are particularly challenging due to the significant finger strength and precision required. They are often found on limestone formations, such as those in the Frankenjura region of Germany, and are featured in some of the world’s most difficult routes, like “Action Directe.”
Train and approach with caution
Training for pocket holds, especially monos, should be approached with caution to prevent injury. Overloading a single finger can lead to strains or tears in the tendons or muscles. See for more details on how to train finger strength the crimping page.
Spiderman hand hold
When using pocket holds, it’s crucial to maintain proper finger positioning to avoid injury. Climbers should avoid opposing flexion and extension of adjacent fingers, as this can introduce strain. Instead, keeping all proximal phalanges aligned can reduce unnecessary shear forces and promote safer climbing practices. See for full details the climbing doctor article.
So when using a pocket, many climbers instinctively curl their unused fingers (like the pinky) into a tight fist. This is a mistake. Curling the pinky while the ring finger is fully extended under load can cause a painful strain in the palm. The Fix: Keep your unused fingers “passive.” Let them drop naturally toward the palm without clenching them. This keeps the tendons in your hand aligned and reduces shear force.
The “Middle-Ring” Rule
For two-finger pockets, the strongest combination is almost always the middle and ring fingers. Because they are similar in length and share certain tendon structures, they work more harmoniously than the index and middle finger.
Body Position
To take the weight off your fingers, keep your hips as close to the wall as possible. If your hips sag away from the wall, the force on your finger tendons becomes “outward” rather than “downward,” significantly increasing the risk of injury.
In summary, pockets and mono pockets are integral to climbing and bouldering, offering unique challenges that require specific training and technique. Proper preparation and mindful practice are essential to safely and effectively navigate these holds.