Hand, feet and finger jams are fundamental rock climbing technique used to ascend cracks in the rock face. By inserting and wedging the hand, finger or feet into a crack, climbers create a secure hold, allowing them to progress upward even when traditional handholds are absent.
Not only can you use hands, fingers, feet, arms, legs and even the whole body can be used to climb cracks. Here a short introduction to this type of climbing technic.
This technic is not used often in bouldering gyms. Yet lately it has gained popularity and has even appeared in bouldering competitions.
Hand feet and finger jams Techniques
Finger Cracks
- Definition: These are narrow cracks where only fingers can fit too small for hands.
- Techniques:
- Finger Locks: Insert fingers into constrictions and hook or lock them by bending the fingers.
- Finger Jams: Insert fingers and then twist or torque them to create opposing pressure.
- Liebacking: Instead of jamming, treat the crack like a side pull. Lean away from the crack while pressing your feet against the wall for opposition.
- Fingertips cracks: it is what is says… insert the tip of the finger, pinky maybe? Smear where possible your feed.
- Thumb stacks: put the thumb in, and twist your index and middle fingers over it, more fingers if possible. Pull the elbow down.
- Thumb cams: Push with your thumb to one side and pull with your fingers the other way.
Hand Cracks
- Definition: Cracks wide enough to fit a hand.
- Aids: crack climbing gloves.
- Techniques:
- Thin hands: fit your hand in as far as possible, press with your fingers the back of your hand against the rock.
- Wide hands:
1. Jam the hand in the crack and try to make a fist, contracting as many fingers as close to the fist.
2. second option is similar to the thin hand only that you will have more gap to fill with your hand. - Hand Jams: Insert your hand and expand it by cupping or twisting, creating friction against the crack walls.
- Foot: Insert your foot in the crack with the big toe up, twist the foot to a strait position.
- Thumbs-Up vs. Thumbs-Down Jams:
- Thumbs-Up: Provides better reach and endurance.
- Thumbs-Down: Offers more security and power but may feel less natural initially.
Off-Width Cracks
- Definition: Cracks that are too wide for a fist but too narrow for full-body insertion.
- Techniques:
- Hand stacks:
1. Both hands in with the backs agains each other.
2. Use a fist and a hand jam combined. - Arm Bars: Insert your arm and press the hand agains one wall and the elbow agains the other.
- Chicken Wings: Press your elbow against one side and your hand against the other, creating a cam.
- Heel-Toe Cam: Insert your foot with the big toe pointing up, then twist it to lock in place.
- Foot cam: When the crack is to wide for the foot, twist your feet such that the toes hits one side and the heel the other.
- Heel-Toe Jam: for wider cracks you can squeze the foot with the heel agains one side and the toes agains the other.
- Knee Jam: Be carefull, knee can get stuck. Perfect for cracks slightly bigger than your knee. Slide the knee in then bend the knee to expand it. You can pull the feet back outside the crack.
- Hand stacks:
Chimneys
- Definition: Cracks wide enough to fit your entire body.
- Techniques:
- Opposing Pressure: Use your back against one side of the chimney and your feet or knees against the other. You can now push your body up with one foot underneath your but.
- Bridging: Extend your legs across the chimney to push against both walls.
Tips and Tricks
- Adaptation to Crack Sizes:
- The usability of techniques depends on individual hand size. For example, what constitutes a finger crack for one climber might be a hand crack for another.
- Foot Jamming: Often overlooked, foot jams are crucial for supporting body weight and reducing reliance on hand strength. Insert your foot, twist it, and let the shoe’s rubber grip the rock.
- Practice Makes Perfect: Learning to jam effectively takes time and patience. Regular practice will improve your ability to find secure jams and reduce discomfort.
- Minimize Pain and Skin Damage:
- Hand tape or gloves can significantly reduce abrasions.
- Over time, skin will toughen with repeated exposure to crack climbing.
Clothing and Equipment for hand feet and finger jams
- Clothing:
- Protection is key when climbing cracks, as skin abrasions are common.
- Long Sleeves and Pants: Ideal for climbing wider cracks like off-widths and chimneys.
- Socks: Some climbers wear socks under their shoes for additional foot protection, especially in painful or abrasive cracks.
- Tucking Pant Legs: Tucking pant legs into socks can prevent snagging and offer extra skin protection.
- Knee pads are used often to protect knees.
- Feet:
- Using more comfortable shoes compared to regular climbing helps to jam better your feet into cracks.
- Straight-Toe Shoes: Perfect for cracks of all sizes, as they allow for better insertion and jamming.
- Hands:
- Rubber Crack Climbing Gloves: Specialized gloves designed to protect hands from abrasion.
- Tape you hands: A DIY option where climbers use athletic tape to create protective coverings for their hands, reducing skin damage in cracks.
Inspiration
If you want to know more and discover the passion for crack climbing visit the youtube channel of wideboyz. Pete and Tom have extended the horizon for crack climbing for many years.
Sources
vdiffclimbing.com
taping hands
https://wideboyz.com/product/knee-bar-pad
Video introduction of crack climbing