Emil Abrahamsson is a prominent Swedish climber and YouTuber, known for his impressive bouldering skills and unique training methods. Born on August 3, 1996, he has made significant strides in the climbing community, working on challenging boulders graded up to 8C (V15). He has been active in the swedish and european IFSC bouldering and lead climbing competitions.

No hang protocol
Daily two (low intencity) hangboard sessions
Abrahamsson gained notable attention for his innovative training technique, particularly his “No Hang Protocol,” which focuses on developing finger strength without traditional hanging from a hangboard. This approach garnered significant interest after he showcased remarkable performance improvements through this method in just 30 days. This session is easy to reproduce thanks to the crimp app. They have shown that this could contribute to a big increase in finger strength.
Social media
His YouTube channel, which has over 200,000 subscribers, features a variety of content including training tips, personal climbing experiences, and the emotional journey of tackling difficult climbs.
In addition to his training, he has competed on the World Cup circuit and is recognized for his powerful climbing style, especially on steep compression problems and dynamic moves. One of his notable achievements includes the ascent of the boulder problem “The Story of Two Worlds,” a highly regarded test piece in the climbing community.
Abrahamsson’s contributions extend beyond climbing as he actively engages with the community through social media and podcasts, sharing insights on training, nutrition, and mental preparation. For more detailed insights, you can check out his appearances on podcasts like The Struggle Climbing Show and articles covering his training methods..
Bouldering training advice
Emil did three videos about how to become a better boulderer.
– Beginner up to V5
– Intermediate V5 to V7
– Expert V7 to V15
Notable boulder problems ascent
The Story of Two Worlds (V15/8C): Located in Cresciano, Switzerland, this problem was first ascended by Dave Graham in 2005. Emil dedicated four years of training before successfully completing it in January 2023.
Power of Now (V14/8B+): In September 2022, Emil sent this challenging boulder, further showcasing his climbing prowess.
Off the wagon (V14/8B+): Attempted not ascent it see youtube video.
Social Media Presence:
- YouTube: Emil Abrahamsson
Sources
https://www.youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson
Video no Hang Protocol
https://www.instagram.com/emil_abrahamsson_/?hl=en
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=12230
https://www.lacrux.com/en/videos/two-years-twice-a-day-on-the-hangboard-what%27s-the-point/
https://climbing-history.org/climber/1300/emil-abrahamsson
https://latticetraining.com/blog/emil-abrahamsson/
https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/emil-abrahamsson
climbing history: emils boulder problems
