Emil Abrahamsson is a Swedish boulderer is know for is powerful climbing style. He post regularly videos on youtube about his new projects, training or just fun bouldering material.
He created a series of three videos on training which I summarize here. In these videos he promotes the crimpd app that offers a multitude of bouldering and climbing training exercises joined together with some scheduling and progress tracking.
He start by quoting a famous climber Ben Moon. Technic is no substitute for power. A little indication of how he thinks where the focus should be?
Beginner up to V5
- Dynamic training. Climb easy climbs without stopping your movement.
- Footwork technic. Train your balance skills by climbing problems without hands on slab walls.
- Pullups, or negative pull ups.
- Make sure all different grip types; full crimp, half crimp, open hand and slopers.
- Repeat your hardest flash level boulders. Do this for 3 times for each boulder. Rest for 3 minutes in between attempts. Do this for 4 different boulders.
Intermediate V5 to V7
- Train your technic: Finger strength, foot placements, grip strength and body strength.
- Campus bouldering. 4 boulderproblems 3 times each without using your feet. rest 3 minutes in between.
- Lock offs training. Find a decent hold, and bump your other hand 3-5 times higher. Switch to the other side and do this on 3 boulders.
- Weighted pull-up. Find your max with two reps. With 90% of max do 3 reps, 5 sets with 3 minutes rest in between.
- Dyno training. Climb boulders below your max and eliminate holds until they become impossible. Do this for 3 boulders.
- Finger strength. Max hangs. test your fingers with 7 seconds hangs on 20 mm and add weight untill you fail. Take 2 minutes rest in between the tests. Do then 6 times a 10 seconds hang with 90% of the weight with 2 minutes rest in between.
Expert V7 to V15
- No hang protocol. Its a ten minute protocol on a hangboard. Training very low intensity training of all your fingers. This session is easy to reproduce thanks to the crimp app. An elaborate review of this protocol.
- Projecting and finger session
- Max projecting. Learn new and highly demanding moves.
- One arm max hangs. 20mm for 10 seconds. If you can not do this load your fingers with a portable hangboard and weights.
- Hard projecting. 3-5 boulders, 20 minutes per boulder.
- Power session.
- Campus latches, 3 jumps per arm 3 sets.
- Campus bouldering, on a spray wall, focus on hard moves.
- Weighted Pull-ups. 3 times 90% of max for several sets.
- Volume session
- take boulders lower then limit
- focus on technic, foot, body position
- 20 boulders
- 1 hour
- 2 minutes rest
Sources
Beginner up to V5: https://youtu.be/nQHteVyTDSw
Intermediate V5 to V7: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOT7FwkwYj0
Expert V7 to V15: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmcoKGtCkfk