Training is not a single, one-size-fits-all activity. In climbing—and especially in bouldering—progress depends on understanding that different forms of training develop different physical and technical qualities. Strength, power, endurance, finger strength, coordination, mobility, and technique each require distinct stimuli, rest patterns, and levels of focus. Effective training, therefore, is not about doing more, but about choosing the right type of training at the right time.
Many climbers spend most of their sessions simply “climbing hard,” hoping that effort alone will lead to improvement. While this approach can work in the short term, it often leads to plateaus, overuse injuries, or uneven development. Structured training introduces intention: each session has a clear purpose, whether it is building finger strength, improving movement efficiency, increasing power output, or consolidating skills on easier terrain.
However, even the best-designed training methods only work when they are adapted to the individual. Every climber differs in age, injury history, recovery capacity, stress levels, and available time. A training intensity or volume that leads to progress for one person may result in stagnation or injury for another. Finding the right balance means listening to your body, adjusting session intensity, and aligning training with your broader routine—including work, sleep, and non-climbing responsibilities.
Creating or planning your own bouldering training programs or sessions are essential for climbers who want to build strength, improve technique, and push their limits. Whether you’re a beginner or an advanced climber, structured sessions can elevate your skills. They not only help you tackle more challenging problems but also enhance control and efficiency on the wall. Here are four distinct approaches from top climbers, each offering unique benefits. Explore each one to find what suits you best.
It is important to clarify that the author of this article is not a professional climbing coach or sports scientist. The information presented here consists of summaries and interpretations of insights shared online by experienced coaches, elite climbers, and training professionals through articles, videos, and publicly available training plans. The purpose of this content is not to offer personalized coaching advice, but to collect, organize, and explain commonly discussed training concepts, making them more accessible.
Beginner Training Session by Lattice Training
For those just starting in bouldering, Lattice Training offers a beginner session specifically designed to build a strong foundation. This plan includes warm-up routines, skill practice, and strength exercises, all aimed at developing basic techniques and overall fitness. The focus remains on gradual progress without risking injury. Therefore, it’s ideal for anyone wanting to get comfortable on the wall and start climbing confidently.
Bouldering Training by Adam Ondra
World-renowned climber Adam Ondra’s session introduces climbers to a diverse mix of bouldering exercises. With an emphasis on proper warm-ups, his routine is perfect for intermediate and experienced climbers who aim to refine techniques and improve consistency on difficult problems. Ondra’s approach is all about controlled progression and steady improvement, making it highly effective for those advancing through tougher grades.
From V3 to V13 in Three Years
For climbers seeking rapid progress, the “From V3 to V13 in Three Years” guide provides valuable insights. Mat Write and Anna Taylor share practical tips to overcome specific challenges, such as body positioning, controlling fear, visualizing movements, and targeting weaknesses. As a result, this approach is well-suited for climbers motivated to advance quickly and tackle higher grades.
Bouldering Training by Emil Abrahamsson
Emil Abrahamsson’s program offers a structured training plan suitable for all levels. With specific plans for beginners, intermediates, and advanced climbers, his sessions focus on both power and technique. Moreover, his program emphasizes steady progression and advanced tracking tools to help climbers set and achieve their goals, whether they’re new to the sport or tackling elite routes.
Overall, each of these bouldering training sessions offers targeted strategies to support climbers on their journey, from building core skills to conquering high-level challenges.