Bouldering shoes

Climbing and bouldering shoes are specialized footwear designed to enhance a climber’s performance by providing optimal grip, support, and sensitivity on various terrains.

Choosing the right shoes

So many shoes but how to select the right ones for you. It would be simple if all the top boulderers would use the same pair, but this is not the case. For example Magnus Mitbo uses soft rubber shoes and Pete Whittaker hard rubber shoes. Ok, Pete is a crack climber, so what does he know? Still he will probably outclimb most of the people reading this article. So my take? Find what helps you climb to your best. How to get to know that? Try some and fail some. Still it helps to have some information about all the different aspects of shoes. So here a list of all the different aspects of climbing shoes. Use it to your advantage.

Some quick tips before we get to the all the boring details of climbing shoes

• Fit
  A snug fit is crucial for performance, but avoid overly tight shoes that cause discomfort or foot issues. Climbers scending long routes will focus more on comfort, boulders will use shoes that will optimize performance. Know that by wearing shoes in their size will increase by a little, as much as half a european size.
• Climbing level,
  Louis Parkinson has a strong opinion about beginner climbers buying to expensive and tight shoes. Don’t do it. Start with comfy shoes in which you can train your technique and footwork. When you mastered these you can start using with some specific climbs more aggressive and tighter shoes.
• Climbing Style
  Choose a shoe that matches your preferred climbing style and terrain. For instance, aggressive shoes are ideal for overhanging routes, while neutral shoes are better for slab climbing.
  I for instance mostly have two type of shoes with me, one pair that I could wear all day (
  neutral shoes). The second pair are very tight and are better fit for toe-hooking with rubber on the upper, a very tight heel for better tention on heel hooks and have a soft rubber that help me smear of volumes.
• Closure Preference
  Decide between lace-ups, Velcro, or slip-on based on the need for adjustability and ease of use. PS: most boulders use velcro, so if you do not want to stand out, that is the choice to make.

If you want more tips, here is a checklist

Climbing shoes

Climbing shoes are made up of several key components: the sole, upper (which covers the top of your foot), toe box, and heel cup. The better these parts fit your foot, the better your overall performance. Additionally, the type of climbing you do and your personal climbing style play a crucial role in selecting the right shoe. Understanding these differences can help you make an informed decision. Here’s an overview of the key features and choices to consider as a boulderer.

Technical Footwork: How Climbing Shoes Enhance Performance

Modern climbing shoes enhance a climber’s ability to perform technical footwork through specialized features.

• Edging
  Aggressively downturned shoes with a pointed toe and stiff soles enable climbers to effectively use small footholds by focusing pressure on their toes.
• Smearing
  Shoes with thinner, more flexible soles allow climbers to use the flat surface of their shoe for friction on smooth walls or surfaces without footholds.
• Toe and Heel Hooks
  Rubber on the toe and heel of the shoe provides grip and friction, enabling climbers to hook their toes or heels onto holds for additional stability and support.

Key Features

• Downturned Toe: Many bouldering shoes feature a downturned (aggressive) toe design, to improve the positioning of the foot.
• Sticky Rubber Sole: The rubber compound used in bouldering shoes is softer than other types of climbing shoes, providing maximum friction and grip on even the smallest holds. Climbing shoes would require more durability that requires harder rubber types.
• Closure Systems: Climbing shoes come with various closure systems, including lace-ups, Velcro straps, and slip-ons, each offering different levels of adjustability and convenience.

Types

Modern climbing shoes are typically divided into three categories: neutral, moderate, and aggressive. These classifications relate to the curvature of the footbed, which significantly impacts climbing precision and overall comfort during extended use.

1. Neutral Shoes: These have a relaxed fit with a flat profile, suitable for beginners and all-day comfort.
2. Moderate Shoes: Featuring a slight downturn, they are versatile for various climbing styles, including slab and crack climbing.
3. Aggressive Shoes: With a pronounced downturn and asymmetry, these shoes are designed for steep, overhanging routes requiring precise foot placements.

Materials

• Uppers: Constructed from leather or synthetic materials. Leather offers durability and comfort, molding to the foot over time, while synthetic materials provide rigidity and ventilation.
  Bouldering shoes often uses additionally rubber to cover the upper. These are great aid for toe hooks.
• Soles: Made from specialized rubber composites that balance stickiness and durability. Softer rubbers offer better grip but may wear out faster. I have created a list of the different types of rubber currently used, I hope this might help you select your shoes.

The asymmetry in climbing shoes refers to the degree to which the toe box curves inward toward the big toe, creating a shape that is not aligned with the heel. This design focuses power and weight onto the big toe, enhancing precision on small holds and during technical maneuvers.

Sole thickness

The thickness of a climbing shoe’s sole plays a critical role in determining its sensitivity and durability.

Thinner soles, typically 3-3.5 mm, provide exceptional sensitivity, allowing climbers to feel the rock beneath their feet for precise placements. However, they wear out faster and are less forgiving on toes, making them better suited for advanced climbers tackling technical terrain.

For beginners, thicker soles ranging from 3.5-4.5 mm are ideal, as they offer a balance between durability and performance, making them suitable for a variety of surfaces.

The thickest soles, around 4.5-5 mm, provide a stiffer platform, prioritizing durability and comfort over sensitivity. These are best suited for long multi-pitch routes where endurance and support outweigh the need for delicate footwork. Choosing the right sole thickness depends on your climbing style, skill level, and the type of rock you encounter.

Weight

Adam Onder mentions in the struggle climbing show that you should consider your weight choosing shoes. The more you weight the more pressure on the shoes, the less sticky they have to be, and the inverse is true too.

Levels of Asymmetry

Understanding the role of asymmetry in climbing shoes can guide you in choosing footwear that balances performance and comfort, tailored to your specific climbing needs.

• High Asymmetry
  Shoes with a pronounced inward curve concentrate force on the big toe, making them ideal for steep, precise foot placement. However, this design can compromise comfort, especially during prolonged use.
• Low Asymmetry
  These shoes have a straighter shape, aligning more closely with the natural foot position. Good for slab climbing, standing on large features as volumes, jamming cracks. They offer greater comfort and are suitable for beginners or climbers tackling less demanding routes.
• Straight
  Straight climbing shoes align closely with the natural shape of the foot, where the sole and toe box do not curve toward the big toe.

Performance vs. Comfort:

While high asymmetry enhances performance by directing power to the biggist toes, it can lead to discomfort during extended climbs. Conversely, low asymmetry shoes provide comfort but may lack the precision required for advanced climbing techniques.

Choosing the Right Asymmetry:

Selecting the appropriate level of asymmetry depends on your climbing style and objectives. For technical, overhanging routes, a high-asymmetry shoe may be beneficial. For all-day comfort on multi-pitch climbs or for beginners, a low-asymmetry shoe is advisable.

Full sole VS split sole

The design of the sole of a climbing shoe significantly influences its stiffness and overall performance, though it doesn’t directly affect friction. There are three primary midsole designs to consider:

1. Full sole
   This design offers maximum stiffness and support, making it ideal for climbers tackling long, multi-pitch routes or those requiring substantial edging performance. The rigidity helps distribute weight evenly, reducing foot fatigue during extended climbs.
2. Partial Split Midsole
   Also known as a partial sole, this design provides a balance between support and flexibility. It offers moderate stiffness, suitable for climbers seeking versatility across various terrains. This midsole type allows for adequate support on edges while maintaining some sensitivity for smearing.
3. Full Split Midsole
   Identified by a division between two sections of rubber, this design results in a highly flexible shoe. It enhances sensitivity and is particularly fit short bouldering routes. However, the lack of support can lead to quicker foot fatigue on longer climbs.

Selecting the appropriate midsole design depends on your climbing style and the specific demands of your chosen routes. Understanding these options enables climbers to make informed decisions, optimizing both performance and comfort.

Rand

Consisting of a rubber layer that wraps around the shoe from the heel to the forefoot. It connects the upper material to the sole, providing structural integrity and protection against wear.

In addition to its structural role, the rand enhances performance during toe-hooking maneuvers. Many modern climbing shoes feature an extended toe rand, also known as a toe patch, which allows climbers to utilize the top of the shoe for toe hooking and scumming.

The rand also contributes to the overall tension and fit of the shoe. Heel rands, for example, serve to maintain arch shape and push the toe into the front of the shoe, leading to greater discomfort but more ability to “toe in” on steep holds.

Leather and suede VS Lined shoes

Popular materials for climbing shoes due to their comfort and ability to mold to the climber’s feet over time. However, these shoes undergo significant stretching—up to a full size—which means they often feel extremely tight when new. The break-in period, while uncomfortable, is essential and best tackled during shorter climbing sessions rather than extended outings like multi-pitch climbs. Once broken in, leather and suede shoes provide a custom fit, conforming to the unique shape of the climber’s feet, offering superior comfort and sensitivity.

Benefits of Leather and Suede Shoes:

• Custom Fit: Leather and suede stretch to adapt to the foot, creating a personalized feel and enhancing comfort for long-term use.
• Breathability: Leather is more breathable than synthetic materials, making it a better option for climbers prone to sweaty or smelly feet and for use in warmer climates. This breathability helps keep feet cooler during hot conditions.
• Durability and Feel: Once broken in, leather shoes provide a balance of durability and tactile feedback, offering excellent sensitivity on various surfaces.

Drawbacks and Considerations:

• Stretching: The same adaptability that provides comfort can also lead to a loss of shape over time, particularly in aggressive shoes designed for technical climbs. Excessive stretching can reduce precision and performance.
• Break-in Discomfort: The initial tightness and break-in period can be painful, requiring patience and gradual adaptation during short climbing sessions.
• Shape Retention: Unlined leather shoes stretch more than lined ones, which can help mitigate excessive stretching and maintain their original shape for longer.

Lined vs. Unlined Leather:

A full rubber rand (lined) helps reduce the amount of stretch, especially in high-performance aggressive shoes, preserving their shape and enhancing long-term usability. Lined leather shoes stretch less (usually about half a size) compared to unlined ones, making them a better option for climbers looking for consistent performance in technical climbs.

Care and Maintenance:

• Cleaning: Regularly clean your shoes to remove dirt and chalk, which can reduce their grip.
• Storage: Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent material degradation.
• Resoling: When the rubber wears thin, consider resoling to extend the shoe’s lifespan. Most resoling shoemakers give the option to resole with different types of rubber.

Differences between bouldering and climbing shoes.

Both boulderers and climbers refer to their footwear as “climbing shoes,” but the demands of bouldering require a different type of shoe. Here’s a brief explanation of how they differ.

Design and Shape:

• Aggressiveness: Bouldering shoes often feature a more aggressive, downturned shape, which positions the foot for powerful movements on overhanging routes. This design allows climbers to press down hard on small edges, enhancing precision on steep terrains.
• Fit: Bouldering shoes are typically worn tighter to maximize sensitivity and control during short, intense climbs. Climbers often choose shoes a few sizes smaller than their street shoes to achieve a snug fit, though it’s important to ensure they are not so tight as to cause significant discomfort.

Sole and Rubber:

• Sole Stiffness: Bouldering shoes usually have softer soles to provide better grip and sensitivity on small holds, allowing for precise foot placements. In contrast, climbing shoes designed for longer routes may have stiffer soles to offer more support and reduce foot fatigue over extended periods.
• Rubber Thickness: The rubber on bouldering shoes is often thinner to enhance sensitivity, enabling climbers to feel the rock better. However, this can lead to faster wear compared to the thicker rubber used in general climbing shoes, which prioritizes durability for prolonged use.

Closure Systems:

• Velcro Straps: Bouldering shoes frequently utilize Velcro closures, allowing climbers to quickly remove or adjust them between short, intense problems. This convenience is beneficial during bouldering sessions that involve frequent shoe removal.
• Laces: Climbing shoes for longer routes often feature lace-up systems, providing a more customized and secure fit, which is advantageous during extended climbs where the shoes remain on for longer durations.

Intended Use:

• Bouldering Shoes: Designed for short, powerful climbs, these shoes prioritize performance, grip, and sensitivity, often at the expense of comfort. The aggressive design aids in executing complex moves on challenging boulder problems.
• Climbing Shoes: Intended for longer ascents, these shoes balance comfort and performance, with designs that accommodate prolonged wear without causing significant discomfort. They are suitable for various climbing styles, including sport and trad climbing.

In summary, while both types of shoes aim to enhance climbing performance, bouldering shoes are specialized for short, intense climbs requiring precision and grip, whereas climbing shoes are designed for versatility and comfort over longer routes.

Climbing Shoe Buying Checklist

• Visit a shop to buy your first pair to try them.
• Trim your toenails short before trying on shoes.
• Keep in mind that the upper & lining (rubber VS Leather or Suede) material determines how much the shoes will stretch.
• Try shoes in the afternoon when your feet are naturally more swollen.
• Ensure there’s no dead space in the heel or toe area, but avoid shoes that cause pain.
• Aim for a glove-like fit—snug like a firm handshake—with a slight curl in your toes.
• If available, test the shoes on a climbing wall to assess their performance.
• Wear the shoes for several minutes before committing to a purchase.
• Choose shoes that feel comfortable and suit your needs, use the above details in mind, sole thinkness, asymetry, split sole or not.
• Avoid overspending on your first pair—focus on practicality over price.

History of bouldering shoes

The modern bouldering shoe was pioneered by Pierre Allain, a French climber and innovator. He developed the first specialized climbing shoe with a rubber sole in the 1930s, enhancing grip and performance for climbers. His design laid the foundation for the advanced bouldering and climbing shoes used today.

Sources

Climber’s Point
Wikipedia
the climbing guy
climbingshoereview / Climbing Shoe Review
Weigh My Rack
The Shoe Shed
The Heel Hook
Climbing House

The struggle climbing show

Louis tips for training