Gaston is a climbing technique where climbers push outward against holds with their palms facing away and thumbs pointing downward. This movement mimics the act of prying open elevator doors. It is especially effective for navigating side-facing holds or situations where incut holds are unavailable, making it a crucial skill for tackling complex routes and problems.
The Origin of the Gaston
The technique gets its name from Gaston Rébuffat, a legendary French climber who frequently used this move. His mastery of this technique led to its association with his name, and today, climbers worldwide refer to it as “gastoning.”
Key Tips for Mastering
To improve your gastoning ability, strategic planning and body positioning are essential. Anticipate the move by positioning your body and feet in a way that optimizes leverage. Proper preparation can significantly increase the efficiency of the move.
- Engage Your Shoulder: Bring your shoulder as close to your hand as possible during the move. This alignment minimizes the tension required to hold the position and allows for better engagement of your body.
- Focus on Body Position and Footwork: Position your feet beneath the hold and keep your body close to the wall. This alignment ensures that your body weight transfers effectively through your gastoning hand, making the move more stable and controlled.
- Incorporate Advanced Techniques: For added stability, consider incorporating techniques like a drop knee or backstep. These can help maintain balance and reduce strain during challenging gaston moves.
Training Exercises for the Gaston
To develop strength and control for gastoning, practice these exercises:
- Train on Easy Boulder Problems: Focus on routes that require gastoning to build familiarity with the technique in a controlled setting.
- Resistance Band Drills: Mimic the position by pulling a resistance band outward, engaging your shoulders and upper body muscles.
- Push-Ups: Include push-ups in your workout routine to strengthen your shoulders, triceps, and core—key muscle groups.
Sources
Video: How to use – send edition
Video: Examples – OnBouldering
Article: What is a gaston in climbing
Article: climbing technique